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Aug 2016

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a personal project, aimed to find a complete test for reviewing the print quality. What do you print to calibrate and test your printer?

I’ve found some interesting STL files on Thingiverse, but I’d love to have some suggestions and feedbacks from you since you’re working every day with printers. Here you can see some examples of what I’m printing to test a Zortrax M200 and an Ultimaker 2+:


Do you use something different? If yes, can you share here the STL file that you’re using?

Cheers,

Federico

  • created

    Aug '16
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    Aug '16
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Impressive test prints - I don’t think you need to “test” your printer any further!! :slight_smile:

Perhaps a Marvin to test it’s minimum layer time - small objects tend to retain heat more than larger object as the head returns to the same point more quickly.

Steve

Hi Steve,

I’m trying to design a stress test, it’s not for my printers.

Federico

Ahhh, makes sense!

I would probably advise using existing ones then, simply because you will/may/should have other user examples of the same printer model and setup? Being able to check the print quality against existing printer users is very handy, and as you have shown - there are a dozen ways to “print test” a printer, which all come out differently :slight_smile:

Steve

As an M200 owner when I read this thread I was like, calibration on the M200? This thing prints well all day everyday! :smiley:

So anyways back to stress tests, I try to think of areas where the prints usually don’t do well:

  • Overhangs in varying angles, 45-90 degrees
  • Bridging tests
  • Retraction torture tests where you have a lot tiny pins that the nozzle has to print. 5x5 grid with 1.2mm in diameter for example
  • Printing something sharp like an inverted ice cream cone

Combing these aspects I can imagine constructing a hemisphere but with pins that originate from the “core”. The tips of the pins outline the surface of the hemisphere. And lastly construct a bridge in a circular pattern to connect the tip of pins on the same height.

Not very artistic but here’s a quick 2D sketch. Red lines are the bridges.

Hi @3DMuse,

That’s the point: the Zortrax is insane in terms of reliability and quality. I’m trying to understand what’s the limit of this machine: for example, I’ve noticed that it has got quite a lot of problem in printing small, thin and tall objects.

I’ll try to print something similar and I’ll let you know what will be the result.

If we’re talking about the limits of Zortrax then I would say its retraction has some weaknesses. When printing chess pieces, 8 pawns at once for example, the surface has a lot of blobs. Cleaning it would result in scars.

And you’re right, small objects are quite difficult to print. You are limited to the 0.4 mm nozzle. Another point is the machine cannot print 100% infill. So some small objects that require infill will be hollow and just have walls. In the end the part won’t work. A recent example I printed is this Axis Aligner for Ultimaker by owen - Thingiverse 22

Set it to maximum infill but the part is non usable as it is too weak. In the end had to print it on my Ultimaker. Surface quality was good, just non usable. Those are the few examples where I think other printers do much better. Other than that it’s still my favourite machine, it just works without you needing to mod your bowden tube and feeder, thousand settings, trial and error etc.

So my conclusion is, there is no perfect printer out there, you need probably 2-3 good printers whose strength compliment each other. Then you can print all materials like a pro.

i normally print a single wall cube to get my flow rate right. ie with a 0.4 nozzle i print a single wall cube with 0.4 thick walls

other than that i use standard settings in cura

of course i use the single wall cube to also test dimensions are correct

Great! Calibrating your printer is essential to printer performance and accuracy.