If you print with the right settings you can achieve water tite prints with FDM printers even at the hobby level with consistent results from 1 layer up to thick walls.
Aside from all of the spam and SLA advertising… We print parts for various customers which are used in marine applications, water/fluid flow, fluid pressure measurement, watertite electronics housings and similar things. We can produce watertite prints down to around 127 micron wall thickness.
I’m unsure why your local hubs parts didn’t work or why others here believe it’s so difficult.
If you are looking for strength and underwater (pressure or depth resistant) parts or to contain water (small aquarium) of more than a few ounces you may well need post processing. Generally we use a proprietary method of sealing all internal and external surfaces to achieve this.
You can contact us for further details and material recommendations at soc.3dhubs.link
@Brian_50 perimeter is a setting used in the slicer which tells the printer how it should print an object.
The perimeter setting refers to how many shells (how thick the walls of the print) should be used.
This setting is also dependent on the nozzle/extrusion width used. So for example if you are using a 0.4 nozzle, with a extrusion width of 0.48 mm, 4 perimeters would result in a object with a shell thickness of (0.48*4 = 1.92mm).
I personally would recommend 4 perimeter and then coating it with an epoxy. Especially if you want it to be reliably water proof.
Doing the epoxy coating is pretty cheap and easy to apply.