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I have a Wanhao i3, it’s a V1 model… or close to it. I know that it’s not a Version 2, but it seems to be a slightly revised version of the Model 1. It came in two pieces instead of one, and already had the gaskets installed on the Z-axis motors, but many other improvements such as not having the crimped extruder wires out of the drag chain or the fix to the heated bed burning out the main board.

A few months ago I asked for advice on some upgrades for my printer and metal parts I could use to replace plastic ones, here:

I got a lot of useful feedback from the replies from there and other boards. Overall, I am definitely going to get the all-metal hotend and extruder parts, and likely get the Z-Braces as well. The only part I am still unsure of is the Carriage Plate.

I also got some VERY important information about a flaw in the way my heatbed is wired and advice about purchasing a MOSFET module to install into my control box to fix that issue.

So now, I am mostly set and ready to purchase most of these upgrades and replacements. The only one I am not sure of and still need advice on what parts to purchase is the Bearing Block Mod:

Namely, I am a little confused on what the terminology of the parts are and which ones to purchase to improve the printer.

First of all, to make sure I got the terminology right. The cylinder-shaped part is called the linear bearing, and the part it goes into that will screw onto the printer is called the bearing block, right? Though I have sometimes seen the bearing blocks referred to as a pillow block instead.

I was recommended to replace the linear bearings that the Wanhao comes with (which are model SCS8UU I believe) with longer ones that are model LM8LUU. I couldn’t find a good supplier for these however. I saw a few on Amazon, but the reviews were mixed with many complaining about some being defective or off-spec… and the only other place I found was AliExpress…

I had someone recommend McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr

Are those overkill? If I am reading the prices right, they seem to be about $16-17 each, and I am confused about the large selection, especially since some of them seem to come with the linear bearings already attached to them. I was also told I might have to “press fit” the linear bearings into the bearing blocks if I got them separate, but I am not sure what that is.

I was also told about this kit: Wanhao i3 - V2 Conversion Kit - i3 V2.1– Ultimate 3D Printing Store

Is it any good in terms of quality? It seems to primarily be designed for a V2 to V2.1 upgrade, but the compatibility states it works on V1 models. I am mainly confused where I can get good quality linear bearings/bearing blocks since many of the places seem to be of low quality, and which ones specifically to get.

Also, I heard some conflicting reports from some that this will increase my X-axis range, while others claimed it will decrease it. Can anyone confirm either of these? I have a part I want to print that I test-printed before at low settings, and it just BARELY fit within the maximum X and Y margins of my printer. I don’t care if it doesn’t increase it, I just don’t want it to decrease it since then I won’t be able to print that part.

Finally, would there be any point in also replacing the linear bearing/bearing blocks on my Y axis, or no?

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I have the ignus bearings from ultimate and love them. There is no need to oil your printer anymore and no possibility of bearings going out and they are smooth and quiet. Check on eBay before buying though, they usually have a better price there.

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I use igus drylin on my y-axis too. They’re great and silent as long as your rods are parallel, if they’re not, the drylin will grind and create friction.

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you are right in your assumption that the bearing blocks are lengthened and that somehow this provides for more solidity in the movement providing less judder, but in acuallity I think that the reverse is true. cutting out the x axis guide blocks is unnessasary in my oppiom as the drive is controlled by the keying in of the belt and it will not slip if the tension is set correctly. any friction on the drive is also taken care of by the belt itself. as for legthening the bearing blocks on all rod guides I would suggest 3 point contact on all guide assemblies and shorter bearings to stop self clinching in the block itself. obviously quality bearings or the new plasi nylon bearings are better than the standard ones used by wanaho, these fall to pieces in about 3 months of constant use and need to be swapped out anyway. I would seriously look at your practice of remodding as sometimes we all can get carried away with “pimping our ride” sometimes for little reward other than the fact of telling our friends we have done this. You seem a capable chap, so my suggestion to you is to learn to design your own machine in software only. sometimes this can be a way of easily spotting the inadequasies in your shop bought machine, more often than not taken to provide a cheaper model. Yes I would say If you think your capable, remake instead of remod, youll be surprised at really how simple these machines are in their mechanics. Happy fettleing, StevetheBuddistXXX

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I am a bit skeptical about using plastic bearings, especially since you mentioned if I don’t install them perfectly (and I am bad with such things) that they would just make things worse due to greater friction. The upgrade kit shown doesn’t seem to use those drylin bearings…

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Well, it’s not just to “pimp it out” as you said, but these are actual improvements to fix some of the issues. In it’s stock configuration the bearing blocks actually rub against the x-axis belt, which is why I want to change them.

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Or what some people do is to use one long lm8luu bearing on one side, and two igus drylin on the other, as this will be most efficient at reducing friction and noise.

As posted by someone on the i3 google forum