I never thought of that analysis, regarding the grooves. I could not add or remove the grooves since it is a design from a client of mine. I’ll try that beam method, but can you show me an image example maybe on how it would look with beams. Thank you very much by the way.
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I’m almost giving up at this moment regarding using abs, and I’m about to resort to using PLA. Do you think PLA has a better chance of surviving this print? Thank you for your response.
The method I use is very simple, just add thickness to the piece by copying and extruding extra walls. In the picture I choose to print flat because heat dissipation through the print is not bad at all and this method inherently avoids warping (at least it works for me). However, if you have no choice but to print vertically, simply add some extra to the center without connecting. I have a 0.1mm gap between my piece and the added support walls, they sometimes stick together but break away easily at the end. Hope that helps.
Let it bow. Fix it after. See the article about fixing warped prints using a frying pan and hair dryer.
If you decide to use PLA, you can adjust the plastic with hot water, too.
Thank you very much for showing me an image, a photo is really worth a thousand words. If it works then, you have saved me from a lot of headache, if it doesn’t then It is better to have tried to learn than not tried at all. Thank you once again.
I’ll see if I can implement this as well, Just don’t know how to remove them supports after. Are those supports really sticking to the design itself? Thanks for the image.
Its a rough sketch… Make them as wide as your nozzle diameter, and line them up so they are easy to cut with a razor blade. Since it a relatively straight edge, It should be easy to cut… I prefer flush cut PCB pliers over a razor blade.
Oh and… measure your grooves at the top, middle and bottom to confirm if that is the issue.
If your print settings are as i suspect the solution is simple, I print thin wall stuff all the time down to 0.8 mm, your print settings should be no finer than 0.2 layer height and set the print speed to a fast setting usually the problem is too much heat build up in the print
Alan
It’s extremely hard to get your chamber “too hot” for ABS. Stratasys FDM machines turn out excellent prints with ABS and have their chamber temperatures set at 70C to 90C; indeed, the fact that it can heat the chamber to those temperatures are a major part of the reason that they’re able to do so well.
As someone else has already said, it may not be avoidable given the current state of consumer machines. I would try adjusting both the extruder and the bed temperature, but which way I can’t tell you; just try to find whatever works best for you.
Ok thanks, I will check the grooves first though just to make sure its the one causing the issue.
try giving it some support manualy and print with PLA in high resolution
Hmmm, Ive had good luck printing a thin wall object about 5 inches tall. I have a FFCP with an active cooling duct i found on thingiverese. Now I know everyone says “DON’T USE A FAN FOR ABS” but I’ve found it improves my print quality significantly. Is what I do is run the extruders at 230, the bed at 110 for the first layer, second layer switch the bed to 100. I’ve found having the bed hotter than that after the first few layers make thin wall parts warp. The fan kicks on at layer 2 at only 20% then at layer three i bump it to 60%. (you might need to change the amount of airflow and when the fan kicks on and off, i was printing at a .3mm layer height) I think the fan is helpful as long as is pulling in already heated air. If you shoot cold air it will warp for sure. My bed setup is a little different than your as well. I use a 5mm piece of glass with kapton and a LIGHT coating of abs slurry. Also, with the fan and ABS the bridging capability is MUCH improved. Im not sure what slicer you are using, but I’ve ben using simplify3d, and love the options they have for cooling control, when you bridge you can have it kick up the speed of the fan, very nice option IMO.
Also, I might add that you may want to try printing it slower as to allow each layer more time to cool.
I was always confuse on which is the right way to cool, when to cool during print. Ok I will be making an airduct for an extra fun I have. Can you show me the thin wall print that you did, just wanted to know if it is my geometry that is also the problem, coz one of the guys have mentioned that the grooves of my object may be causing the warping. Thanks so much for your input.
Options slow your print speed. Try adding an over hang at the top of the print at the bending apex. Then set support structure in place. This may help reduce or eliminate the bending. Then cut the over hang and support away.
I saw their response about the geometry and I agree that it could be causing it. My part is all angles and no rounds like the you have. I’ve actually ben meaning to upload the model for this part as it’s actully a guard to help with drafts on the ffcp. My measurements were a little off with the holes for the screws.
Hi guys, I finally decided to print this thing with ESUN PLA black, with a large room fan blowing on the object, and it work perfectly. Though, I would have loved to print it with ABS, but since I was on a deadline with my client I guess its the wisest thing to do. Anyway thank you for all your help, I will print this thing in ABS with all your advise in mind, as soon as I have time. Why? Coz, I am a guy just don’t want giving up. Once again thanks.
To me this appears to be a similar issue to when prints cave in on the sides to me. You said you added a cooling fan, which is a good idea to help the layers at least solidify. However if you cool the print too much it will crack just like you experienced. I would turn the cooling fan on to a lower speed and try the print in ABS again. I know you said you got the print to your client already, but for future trials it may not be a bad thing to try 