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Jan 2016

How did you manage to find the break? My break is up near the ring connector and I cant even get the ring connector off, very solid.

I had one of mine go out about 6 months after I got my printer, the eBay seller I got my printer from sent me a replacement TC for just $5 shipping, since it was under warranty. Next time I have an issue, I’ll probably buy several from that “CoolCube 3D” eBay seller you linked to, I’ve had my eye on them for a while. Since all their parts look to be identical to the stock CTC/Wanhao parts, I hope to use them to build up an inventory of replacement parts so I’m ready the next time something breaks… Especially good to have at least one full set of replacement plastic parts, since those aren’t as widely available or interchangeable.

Iv ordered both the thermocouples I linked to and also some similar one from aliexpress

I’m also stockpiling three generic replacements, if they work fine I can be an Australian supplier for all the Aussies whom don’t want to wait weeks for replacements

I had a look at biby3d but couldn’t see any ring type thermocouples, only the ones which screw straight into into the heating block

anyone tries one of these instead of the ring type ?

Basicly the lug screws into the hole the ring type was mounted. It seems to be the newer prefered method, both MBI and Flashforge have switched to these. You need to ensure the lug is M3 to be compatible with your block. Here is one thing that you may find, with the lug type sensor you tend to set your extruder temps a little higher. This is due to the lug type being a better heat conductor. While sensing 210 at the end of the eyelet type, the screw holding the eyelet might actually be 215.

B3D - Thermocoupler (K type) as used in Replicator 2/2X Details would be the one