Yeah that makes sense then that they are clogging and overheating. I would let them sit a few days with bleach and really flush them out. Remember anything past the filter that is smaller than .5 microns will go through the printhead and could easily clog the heads.
We have a full pack of heads from HP which I believe are oem right?
You’ll have to excuse any noob questions as I’m part of the IT dept and this has been passed to us as the head of DT who left about 1 1/2 year ago was the only one who knew about this unit. the DT dept just left it sitting there and now came to us and said ‘make it run’. Nice…
We do have some personal motivation to get it going though. We’re all into tabletop gaming in IT and would like to print out some of the OpenForge map tiles for game night. 
Thanks for the suggestions. A good clean out of the lines, etc. was our next ‘go to’ so I’m glad to get some confirmation that has a possibility to fix the problem.
As an aside, anyone know where we can get a head bleed kit (or if you can mcGuyver one together from an old print head)?
This is another thing that’s gone walkabout for no real reason (I mean what would anyone else want with it?).
eBay for a bleed kit. I have the one with the bottle not the funnel. Instead of the syrynge to bleed the lines I made a tube with one of the pieces from the printhead for each color. Then hook up the tube to the syrynge.
jan3dp
25
Hi all In my 10 years with the 510 the following procedure have kept me running:
1.Always add binder fresh from fridge before print job.
2.Return excessive binder to container in fridge when printer will be passive for 2 days or more.
3.Have a mirror placed by the head cleaner unit, this way you can always see the heads surface and wipe them with a cloth soaked in bleach.
4.Always print parts in color, does not matter if you use colored binder on 123 head, cause the parts get so much more solid printing with all heads.
5.After holidays, fill tanks with strong bleach and hot tap water, and suck thru the system with syringe at the head valves.
if you follow these route, your machine will run 1000 hours a year
Hi,
I know the Z510 pretty well and I have the tool used to recap the septums (the part under the printheads that leak). For a school, I don’t charge for recapping. I charge five bucks per septum which is 20 total. The diaphragm and metal cap both get replaced. I also do a printhead service that takes HP 10 and HP 11 then cleans them internally. If you would like to know more about either process, let me know. I am somewhat connected to a limited number of parts. You never know what I might have on hand. Just ask me. I am limited however, to the Z310, Z310 plus, Z510 and Z810. Happy printing
David
Hi David
that would be great. I have a few leaky septums. How would that work to get them replaced. Is it easy to get them out of the machine and send to you? What kind of parts do you have for the 510?
It is pretty easy to remove the septums. Basically it’s the following steps…
Press the metal release buttons of all four CPC connectors in the binder supply area. This will allow you to remove the amount of binder from the line that would otherwise run everywhere making a mess. I use a bleeding kit of all four binders.
Using a a mirror or if you know how, remove the entire gantry. On the underside, you will see the four vinyl tubes. With a slight tug, they should pull off. Last step is to remove the four E-clips. At that point, the septums should lift out. Be sure to hold onto the PE washer from topside as well as the E-clips.
Any chance you could get your hands on the binder bottles for a Z510? Mine came without them…
Sorry, I don’t have any of those but people have searched for Nalgene jerrican and had success. The fittings are made by CPC and were hand configured by ZCorp. You might be able to order from 3DS but I’d be afraid of the cost. I know for sure that the Z310 bottles were custom for that unit. You are fortunate to have the Z510. While you are on CPCs website, you will probably find a good replacement for the leaky multipoint connector.
Good luck
Thank you. Can you send me your contact details via email and we can work out the septum replacements. Also I would be interested in what parts you have for the 510. Thank you! jimmineycricket1 (at symbol) yahoo.com
Luis_1
32
Hi Charles, could you please point me tothe ZPrint 7.10 download link, I cant find it on 3ds website:( thank you email would work to at 3digitalcooks at gmail dot com
Thanks a lot!
jan3dp
33
Hi Luis I sent you a sendt you Zprint and Zedit 7.10.3 build by a Sprend file share. Enjoy
Jan
jan3dp
34
Hope you got the link and download it, there is a 24 hour timeout on the share file transfere…
Luis_1
35
Thanks a lot! Yes I did, I am fighting my own battle trying to set this printer up and running… also making a daily vlog to share more about my experience hope the link doesnot bother anyone.
Thank you!
jan3dp
36
Good to see that you are up and running I never had a 310 machine, I waited to purchase until the Spectrum z-510 was released in 2006. The first machine I bought is sold, but I still have a 2007model Z-510 in the office. Since I newer had the 310, I could not speak for that actual machine, but hooking up the Z-510 thru Z-print have many times been a struggle thru the years. We always had a dual network card in the computer operating the printer, where one card was dedicated for the z-510. Hooking it up thru the network never was a hit. Remember we bought a laptop for the lab to operate the printer, and I almost gave up getting it online even with a manually setup fixed IP…
Luis_1
37
Thanks! I wouldnt say up and running quite yet, but at least connected!! The whole connection thing was a little bit bizarre. Now its time to fine cartridges, tubing, filters and clean everything!!! Do you have the pressing part to remove airpockets from the powder? does it has holds in it? I might make one but cant find pictures of it.
Thank you,
jan3dp
38
It’s a straight forward perforatet steel sheet with the area of the build chamber (5-10 mm less) It’s got a typical drawer handle on the middle. The sheet is 1,5-2 mm thick
Sorry no pic’s, just got home now
Luis_1
39
Awesome I just wanted to know if it had, holes in it! Thank you!
Does anyone know a good source for the binder filters?
