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Mar 2017
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PDUK
Mar '17

Hi - About a year ago I bought myself the BQ Hephestos 2 and I have really enjoyed learning about 3D printing. I kept on running into adhesion issues on the print bed, especially on large flat based prints. The corners would lift.

BQ provide something called a fixpad which you put on top and it adds a rougher surface. It was ok but still didn’t handle the larger prints. I have also attempted blue tape, and elmo glue. Some improvements. I have also re-calibrated the z level and print at about 205-210 as the lowest I can get away with.

BQ are offering a heated bed kit, it’s just under £200 which seems a bit steep to me but I’m curious if it’ll solve the problem… any advice from anyone whether a heated bed greatly improves adhesion on larger flat prints using pla?

Thanks

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    Mar '17

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    Mar '17
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btdevine
Mar '17

I generally use a glue stick on my heated bed and the prints stick beautifully. Is the issue for you just warping around the corners, or is the filament not sticking well to the bed in general? Also, do you print your prints with or without rafts? Rafts can generally help the warping and keep it to a minimum.

PDUK
Mar '17

Hi - thanks for responding.

The PLA seems to stick to the bed generally when I print smaller items without an issue, especially when I use glue.

The problems are with larger base prints, the corners lift as you mention so much that the print eventually gets knocked off when the extruder head hits one of the corners when it raises to much.

I have tried glue on the larger prints aswell without luck

My printer has a glass bed but it doesn’t have a heated bed and wonder if I invest in the heated bed kit if that would fix it.

Thanks again in advance for any advice you can provide

3DFlying
Mar '17

I’ve gotten the best results from PLA with an unheated bed, glass and hairspray. PLA seems to stick to hairspray better than elmer’s glue.

btdevine
Mar '17

I’m sure that the heated bed would improve warping. If you print large prints often and think you would be willing to pay that kind of money to help prevent warping, it might be worth it. But before you upgrade, check out this 317. It looks like it has some good suggestions for someone who’s in a similar situation to you. I’d try some of the things recommended there before you go ahead and buy anything expensive. If you’re still getting unsatisfactory results, then I’d consider upgrading.

get3dheraklio
Mar '17

Hello!

For sure a heated bed is something helps, I also own the same printer and I am waiting for the heated bed kit as I have already ordered it. It is something I recommend!

Best regards!

3D_Hubster
Mar '17

Hello, I have got the Hephestos 2 and with PLA fine results (3D Lac on the bed). I recently added the heated bed kit from bqstore.nl €159,90 and it just makes it more easy. If you have issues with an open printer you could try to get it out of airflow to avoid issues. I did so in the past which helped a lot.

emka
Mar '17

I had similar issues with the Hephestos 1, even with BuildTak applied. After installing a heated bed (bought the MK2 from Aliexpress, would buy the MK3 with Aluminum plate now) the corner adhesion / warping problems on larger prints vanished (PLA at bed temperature of 60). You also need to get a stronger power supply (which I bought locally to avoid quality issues) and minor changes in the firmware. Be aware that the higher current and mechanically burdened cable will increase your risk of fire.

Premium
Mar '17

Yes the heating plate is a solution but not the only one.
The temperature of the printing environment has its importance as well as the density of the parts.
If you print at 25/30 ° infill 10%, walls 1.2 and top / botom 0.6 with just spécial hair spray on the glass, it is possible to print the entire tray without warping (i use Nelly laqua or 3d lac)

Putting the printer in a semi-closed box is definitely the ultimate solution

PDUK
Mar '17

Hi - thanks for responding, I am certainly tempted to get it.

Its really good to hear from someone that has my printer, is there an active forum somewhere with focused on H2 owners? I can’t find one that is active! Thanks

PDUK
Mar '17

Hi

I always thought that the temperature of the printing environment is important but the retailer that sold me my printer says it isn’t.

I have had my printer in a room which is slightly colder than the rest of the house, about 16-17c ambient temp. I’ve just moved it to a room that’s closer to 18-20c but have not been able to test it properly.

Enclosure of the printer also sounds like a good idea.

PDUK
Mar '17

Thanks very much for the advice.

Have you seen the BQ Heated Bed kit and do you have any thoughts on this specific item? (they have a youtube)

Thanks

PDUK
Mar '17

Its really good to hear from someone that has my printer, is there an active forum somewhere with focused on H2 owners? I can’t find one that is active! Thanks

PDUK
Mar '17

:o I don’t speak french …! I could translate to read it but would do a horrible job of translating english to french when posting!

Premium
Mar '17

Print at less than 20 ° is impossible, heat the print area with a powerful alogene spot, you will see a big difference

emka
Mar '17

I just checked it out, this kit was not available yet when I upgraded. It is a bit pricey compared to the DIY solutions, but looks quite robust. If you can spare the money it is probably the easiest and safest way to go.

3D_Hubster
Mar '17

As said I use it, build it on is very easy, system is robuust and heats up quickly. Just checked with bqstore.nl (Dutch distributor), they have it on stock.

Ewokalvino
Mar '17

Olvidate de la superficie fijadora, cristal, buena nivelación y algo de nelly, es el “secreto”, bq le gusta mucho vender basura y subir el precio con extras para hacer las cosas mínimamente decente, te lo dice uno que tiene la witbox y solo se mantiene la estructura original. El resto fue todo reemplazado… La cama caliente útil para otros materiales, pla es innecesario, pero si quieres una para pla ponla a 40-60°, algo que, como dije, no es necesario en absoluto. Imprime las primeras 2-3 capas a velocidades razonables y sobretodo, el cristal bien nivelado. Si usas otra cosa que no sea cristal o un añadido como cinta o superficies asegurate que estén TOTALMENTE planas. Saludos y suerte.

PDUK
Mar '17

Hi everyone.

Based on the great advice on this forum I went out and bought the heated bed kit and have installed it.

Initial tests look very promising, I am printing without a brim or raft straight onto the glass bed without glue tape or spray with the heated bed set to 50c and it is going well.

I did ask BQ if they would provide a discount to an early adopter of Hephestos 2 (such as myself) and they declined, which I thought was disappointing given that I have found it almost impossible to print large prints on the large H2 print base (as advertised that it could) without a heated bed. Cheeky of BQ!

Thanks