The PLA seems to stick to the bed generally when I print smaller items without an issue, especially when I use glue.
The problems are with larger base prints, the corners lift as you mention so much that the print eventually gets knocked off when the extruder head hits one of the corners when it raises to much.
I have tried glue on the larger prints aswell without luck
My printer has a glass bed but it doesn’t have a heated bed and wonder if I invest in the heated bed kit if that would fix it.
Thanks again in advance for any advice you can provide
I’m sure that the heated bed would improve warping. If you print large prints often and think you would be willing to pay that kind of money to help prevent warping, it might be worth it. But before you upgrade, check out this 317. It looks like it has some good suggestions for someone who’s in a similar situation to you. I’d try some of the things recommended there before you go ahead and buy anything expensive. If you’re still getting unsatisfactory results, then I’d consider upgrading.
For sure a heated bed is something helps, I also own the same printer and I am waiting for the heated bed kit as I have already ordered it. It is something I recommend!
Hello, I have got the Hephestos 2 and with PLA fine results (3D Lac on the bed). I recently added the heated bed kit from bqstore.nl €159,90 and it just makes it more easy. If you have issues with an open printer you could try to get it out of airflow to avoid issues. I did so in the past which helped a lot.
I had similar issues with the Hephestos 1, even with BuildTak applied. After installing a heated bed (bought the MK2 from Aliexpress, would buy the MK3 with Aluminum plate now) the corner adhesion / warping problems on larger prints vanished (PLA at bed temperature of 60). You also need to get a stronger power supply (which I bought locally to avoid quality issues) and minor changes in the firmware. Be aware that the higher current and mechanically burdened cable will increase your risk of fire.
Yes the heating plate is a solution but not the only one.
The temperature of the printing environment has its importance as well as the density of the parts.
If you print at 25/30 ° infill 10%, walls 1.2 and top / botom 0.6 with just spécial hair spray on the glass, it is possible to print the entire tray without warping (i use Nelly laqua or 3d lac)
Putting the printer in a semi-closed box is definitely the ultimate solution
Hi - thanks for responding, I am certainly tempted to get it.
Its really good to hear from someone that has my printer, is there an active forum somewhere with focused on H2 owners? I can’t find one that is active! Thanks
I always thought that the temperature of the printing environment is important but the retailer that sold me my printer says it isn’t.
I have had my printer in a room which is slightly colder than the rest of the house, about 16-17c ambient temp. I’ve just moved it to a room that’s closer to 18-20c but have not been able to test it properly.
Enclosure of the printer also sounds like a good idea.
Its really good to hear from someone that has my printer, is there an active forum somewhere with focused on H2 owners? I can’t find one that is active! Thanks
I just checked it out, this kit was not available yet when I upgraded. It is a bit pricey compared to the DIY solutions, but looks quite robust. If you can spare the money it is probably the easiest and safest way to go.
As said I use it, build it on is very easy, system is robuust and heats up quickly. Just checked with bqstore.nl (Dutch distributor), they have it on stock.
Olvidate de la superficie fijadora, cristal, buena nivelación y algo de nelly, es el “secreto”, bq le gusta mucho vender basura y subir el precio con extras para hacer las cosas mínimamente decente, te lo dice uno que tiene la witbox y solo se mantiene la estructura original. El resto fue todo reemplazado… La cama caliente útil para otros materiales, pla es innecesario, pero si quieres una para pla ponla a 40-60°, algo que, como dije, no es necesario en absoluto. Imprime las primeras 2-3 capas a velocidades razonables y sobretodo, el cristal bien nivelado. Si usas otra cosa que no sea cristal o un añadido como cinta o superficies asegurate que estén TOTALMENTE planas. Saludos y suerte.
Based on the great advice on this forum I went out and bought the heated bed kit and have installed it.
Initial tests look very promising, I am printing without a brim or raft straight onto the glass bed without glue tape or spray with the heated bed set to 50c and it is going well.
I did ask BQ if they would provide a discount to an early adopter of Hephestos 2 (such as myself) and they declined, which I thought was disappointing given that I have found it almost impossible to print large prints on the large H2 print base (as advertised that it could) without a heated bed. Cheeky of BQ!
