Raise 3D N2 Plus

Technologyoutle · 2017-03-15T11:52:23.000Z

Video issue is very easily fixed by tightening a few grub screws

jcamper · 2017-03-15T12:06:58.000Z

What would you recommend under 5k then?

PhilippGlasneck · 2017-03-15T12:07:10.000Z

Hallo Raise N2 plus is rubbish !

-Rods not play free

-Fanholder broken

-Fan sucks filament

-Z axis not play syncron

-Z swtch make difference

-big spool blocked door

- oil dripping down bett

- no App control

-idealmaker dose not work in the last window

- Pause accidental clips left side

and more …

My is wrongly built first print accident Right Extruder Cow tail - YouTube

No the Hole in heating block is to big for Hetbreaker

PhilippGlasneck · 2017-03-15T12:09:48.000Z

No the Hole in heating block is to big for Hetbreaker Hot End Rotating - YouTube

Jeff_Johnson · 2017-03-15T12:41:01.000Z

I’ve been 3D printing for almost 4 years now. the N2+ is the best 3D printer I have ever owned. Better prints than my Taz 5, and years ahead of my Replicator 2x. Prints at 0.3mm look cleaner and better than many of the prints I see in Facebook groups that was printed at 0.1mm.

It’s a workhorse that has allowed me to build a business printing for others. In 2 months, the printer paid for itself in paid work. I love it so much, that I purchased a N2 about 2 months after that and in January, purchased my 2nd N2+. I’m slowly replacing my other printers with these. The next couple I get will be N2’s so I can stack them on heavy duty shelving, otherwise I’d go ahead and spend the extra money for the N2+.

The touch screen is a great feature that allows you to tweak settings on the fly and there are ample ports for USB, SD and plenty of onboard memory.

If you get a jam, you can undo three thumb screws and use the included ram rod to force whatever is causing the jam out. (sometimes you need to take the nozzle off). You’ll be printing again in minutes. Other printers, like a replicator 2x take a lot longer to clear since you have to remove the long allen screw that holds the fans and extruder motor in place.

The IdeaMaker software has a ton of features. Custom manual supports, cut files in the app, and basic repair features. I used to use Simplify 3D, but haven’t used it once for the N2 or N2+.

And the most important thing - They have a great support team and a very active user community in the company’s online forum.

The hot end goes to 300°. I’ve printed Polycarbonate, Nylon, PETG, ABS, Ninjaflex and some PLA, and PLA wood, with no issues besides tweaking the temperatures.

It’s not foolproof. You still have to tinker and tweak settings for different materials, but you’d have to do that with any printer.

My only issues are:

No out of filament detector (Makerbot was able to get this right, so others should be able to do so too).
Bed clips - The back has brackets to hold the glass in place. The front uses office binder clips. They work, I just feel like they could have come up with a more elegant solution.
Bed leveling for printing without a raft. The printer comes pre-leveled from the factory and is fine for printing with a raft, but if you want to print without a raft, you will need to adjust the 7 or 8 screws under the heated bed to get everything perfectly leveled. If you are fine printing with a raft, then you shouldn’t have to do anything.
A remote app - Again Makerbot was able to create an app with remote camera viewing and a pause print function, estimated time remaining, etc. why can’t they do the same?
BuildTak - I loved BuildTak before I owned a N2+, but the 13" x 13.5" sheets are expensive compared to other sizes, (Not Raise3D’s fault) so I buy the 12" x 12" sheets and use blue painter’s tape to go to the edge of the glass.

Issues I’ve had (that weren’t my fault):

I’ve broken two endstop switches (one on the N2 and one on the N2+). It’s a $7 part that both times were covered by warranty. In fact, support sent me two when one broke, so I had a backup which meant a quick swap when the other endstop broke. Both times were actually caused by filament tangled on spools. When the filament broke, the extruder slammed into the switch and bent the switch. The printer will actually print with a broken x or y endstop. (you just can’t pause to change filament, since there will be no reference point).
Thermocoupler. I did have a thermocoupler go out (the temperature sensor) after 6 months, it was technically out of warranty, but the support team went ahead and covered it anyway.

I know some people have had issues, but think most of the issues are from damage during shipping, so check the shock tag on the side of the box when it arrives.

PhilippGlasneck · 2017-03-15T14:03:08.000Z

check the shock tag ? I have found nothing ""sticker and paper " need picture

jcamper · 2017-03-15T14:06:13.000Z

UH?

Jeff_Johnson · 2017-03-15T14:58:28.000Z

It’s a big octagon sticker (about 6-8") with “WARNING” at the top and a little capsule in the middle. It looks something like the one attached. (I don’t don’t have a Raise3D box handy to photograph.) They are usually on anything with electronics or glass that is shipped via freight these days. I’ve also seen these on boxes that weigh over 30lbs through FedEx and UPS. (The manufacturer adds these, not the shipper).

It’s been on the box of all three Raise3D printers I’ve received over the past year. If the capsule center is red, it means that the box experienced an impact during shipment that was above the “normal” levels during shipment (different color tags are for different levels of gforces). You are supposed to note on the shipping doc you sign if the center is red or partially red.

If you ever watched the show Mythbusters, they would stick these stickers on Buster, their crash test dummy to determine if a human would have survived whatever myth they were testing.

You are supposed to note on the waybill when you sign if the shock tag has been triggered.
screen_shot_2017-03-15_at_10.48.46_am.png

PhilippGlasneck · 2017-03-15T15:14:37.000Z

sorry not in europe

Jeff_Johnson · 2017-03-15T15:17:35.000Z

Sorry, I’m in the US, so I can not speak to what is done for shipment in any other country.

jcamper · 2017-03-15T16:07:20.000Z

Why do you say Simplify 3D is a must? Is ideamaker not good?

bvandenbroeck · 2017-03-15T17:12:48.000Z

Ideamaker is actually quite good. These folks probably used a beta version or something early during the Kickstarter because I have no issues and use nearly every function. They also update quite regularly.

Obfuscated3D · 2017-03-15T17:24:15.000Z

I have one and I like it… it works pretty good out of the box with PLA. The only issues are with large prints with ABS and these are typical issues you’d have with warping and bed adhesion. The factors involved are the quality of the ABS filament and the type of surface you are printing to. I have found that using glass with either capton or some other surface stuck to the glass and Elmers purple gluestick works the best. Also securing the glass to the heated bed with silicon pads on the corners is better than the clips they provide.

It’s not the fastest printer but I like the large volume and felt the cost justified not having to deal with building a system with an equivalent volume.

jcamper · 2017-03-15T20:31:14.000Z

I’m sorry whats BuildTak? I’m new to all this I’m sorry if its a silly question

CuJo3D · 2017-03-15T20:33:19.000Z

Good afternoon, I have had the n2 + for a couple of months now. It has been my first 3D printer so I have nothing to compare it to. I like it, however it has issues and I would never buy another one. The bed did not come level and we are having a hard time making it level. There are lots of brass parts including the nozzle, which causes the need to upgrade almost immediately. We feel like we’ve had to do more repairs on it than what we should based on the number of hours. It has the ability to print a large number of different materials and obviously the print volume are both pluses. I have not used the full print volume yet as I’m having commitment issues to an 8 day print

Obfuscated3D · 2017-03-15T20:58:01.000Z

Buildtak is a texture surface with a self adhesive backing that you apply to the glass printing bed. The textured surface helps the first layer stick to the plate. Buildtak works best with PLA. Problems with build tak is that it’s kinda expensive, wears out and can be easily damaged when you sue a scraper to remove prints.

bvandenbroeck · 2017-03-15T20:58:33.000Z

No problem, it’s a build surface you put on the top of the glass sheet. It keeps your object adhered to the base as it prints.

Obfuscated3D · 2017-03-15T21:00:15.000Z

I have used both… I don’t have any issues with ideaMaker and it’s free

jcamper · 2017-03-15T21:05:03.000Z

does it work good with nylon and ninjaflex/polyflex too?

where do you buy it? can you get it thru Raise?

jcamper · 2017-03-15T21:05:31.000Z

I’ve heard good things, I’m going to try it anyway