Raft not coming off!

[Tony_Kayala]

hello, I have been using matter control with a Robo R1 plus. I have been having a raft problem of the raft not being able to come off of my print very easily. How could I fix this?

[3DDestined]

did you try re-leveling the bed? and if so I would say could be the temp printed at?

[NikaLaKitty]

You should have an option for airgap, increase that by .2-.3mm. Airgap is how close it prints the actual print’s first layer on the raft. Closer (value closer to 0) makes it stick better to the raft but too close and it’ll practically become part of the print like a brim.

[NikaLaKitty]

Robo 3D’s have autoleveling by default and from the looks of his print, temp seems fine. Couldn’t hurt to add more possible solutions.

[Tribricks]

Hi,

It depends on the slicer software you use. With Simplify3D it’s the “separation distance” field whose value needs to be slightly increased. In slic3r there is an equivalent field.

You may be overextruding plastic as well and need to tweak your flow rate but from the pictures it doesn’t seem to be obvious so I would stay with the separation distance parameter

cheers

[Scottjames]

Are you printing g in ABS? If your printing in PLA there shouldn’t be a use for a raft, really you shouldn’t need one with ABS either, if your using ABS and your prints are warping try enclosing the housing of the r1 more, my experience with my R1 is that the price to cools too fast and warps, along with cracking… hope this helps Also Matter control is nice but I prefer Simplify3d

[leonardo_f_cort]

Put some more separation distance for your raft, or don’t use a raft, use brim instead! way easier to peel out!

[pec1985]

Hi Tony,

I used the raft option once to try it out. I’m not using it anymore because of that same reason. For PLA I just use glue stick and that’s is.

Try to print again without raft, you should really be using it only if you have issues with the print not sticking to the base.

Good luck!

Cheers

[John_Talavera]

If its Pla turn the heated bed OFF. If its ABS, set your heated bed lower. Wait until your prints are cold to the touch, and i mean cold, until you try to pull them off. Do not put them in the freezer or anything like that to speed up cooling or they will stick even worse. Make sure you are using a sharp putty knife to get the rafts off. Be patient, and don’t fight it. Move the knife around until you find the weakest seam and push out from there. Good luck!

[Tony_Kayala]

I re-leveled, and my prints are looking better then ever. I have it set at 50c and I’m being told to just use glue stick and no temp, then I’ll have the raft peel off from my print easier. My supports are the only thing that is getting messed up and if I can print on glass with supports, but it seems like they warp all the time on glass but not on the raft

[Tony_Kayala]

I have been using matter control the one that comes with the Robo. It has an air gap of .3 already. I could go further and see what it does. It never hurts! Haha

[Tony_Kayala]

I’m using pla for the moment. I tried using glass and it works fine for the first layer of the regular print. It is just when my support layers go on the glass it warps that’s what I’m trying to figure out. If I can do that I will have great prints.

[Scottjames]

If printing in PLA I set the bed at 60, and the hot end at 210, for ABS try to enclose it more and set the heat bed HIGHER, I set the hot end at 245 and bed usually at 90 or 100, but if you set it above 80 it will turn off, you will have to go into the Marlin code and change it, I have a Robo and have ever been Through all the things you are going through… let me know if you need help changing the code, also I changed the hot end to an e3d v6 right off the bat and it is a world of difference…

[Scottjames]

I use aqua net super extra hold hairspray, I have been where you are with my Robo, and have tried them all, gluestick, tape, abs + acetone mix, I wouldn’t print with a raft ever unless last resort, it depends on where your printer is sitting as well, if in the basement where it’s cooler you need to ramp up the heat a bit and vise versa, watch autolevel and if hotend still to high pause and manually adjust with the rods, print brim before printing a raft. A raft is a waste of filament. . Hope this helps

[dqthebinary]

First of all, my first and most emphatic recommendation to you is to move away from MatterControl; the sooner the better. Pretty much any other slicing software is better. I hop back and forth between Repetier-Host, Cura, and Simplify3D, based on the project. If you want good support, I’d advise you to get familiar with Cura. I haven’t even touched my Cura defaults in terms of support, and all of my support prints well and comes off very easily.

My second suggestion is to use Aqua Net hairspray for bed adhesion. While not entirely necessary, it gets the job done with the least amount of mess. Just make sure to cover components other than the bed with your hand while spraying on the ANet. Alternatively, I’ve had a lot of success with printing directly on cleaned glass with no adhesion implements whatsoever. This produces a gorgeous, glassy first layer that blends the extrusion toolpaths together to the point you can’t even see them. Heat the bed to 60*C-80*C and make sure to smash the first layer so that it is homogeneous; a meticulously cleaned bed ensures the best results. To do this, just manually adjust the lead screws (or threaded rods, depending on your model of R1) a click or two lower (counter clockwise) than your standard Z-offset. If printing with PLA, turn off your heated bed after the first layer of the print is complete.

[tsukaska]

Old topic, but, of note: if you’re using a glass bed, and PLA, raise temp to 65.