Print bubbling on heated bed during print

[gomezjj3]

Scott,

So check it out. Make sure your bed is leveled the best you can. Take a measurement of the Z axis on both sides make sure they are even. Use a level on your bed to make sure it is even both X and Y axis orientation. Then level using the paper with a hot bed. Once all is good, give it a shot at printing. Here are some example I use for printing.

1.75mm filament on a .4 nozzle FLOW 100%

PLA

Layer Height .16

Shell Thickness 1.2

Enable Retraction True

Bottom Top Thickness 1.2

Fill Density (your preference)

Print speed 40 (yeah its slow but it produces nice prints)

Printing Temp 200

Bed Temp 60

Fan speed 100%

1.75mm filament on a .4 nozzle FLOW 100%

ABS

Layer Height .32

Shell Thickness 1.2

Enable Retraction True

Bottom Top Thickness 1.2

Fill Density (your preference)

Print speed 40 (yeah its slow but it produces nice prints)

Printing Temp 240

Bed Temp 100

Fan speed OFF

1.75mm filament on a .4 nozzle FLOW 100%

HIPS

Layer Height .16

Shell Thickness 1.2

Enable Retraction True

Bottom Top Thickness 1.2

Fill Density (your preference)

Print speed 40 (yeah its slow but it produces nice prints)

Printing Temp 220

Bed Temp 105

Fan speed 40%-50%

BRIM or RAFT is user preference. If using brim it is easier to use 5-6 lines vice 15-20, it will give you same results. The bigger the project the more lines can be added. A Raft in my opinion is usually best used on smaller items. But do you really need to use these. Folks tend to say that it is a waste of filament. TRUE. But whatever works for you stick with it.

Also once you get a Profile to work save it on your desktop, Name it I3PLA for example. That way you know it works and you can open it up on the Slicer you use and it gives you a peace of mind once you start. Always stay close to the printer, On its first layers it is key to determining whether a print will work or not.

[gomezjj3]

Scott, I forgot to tell you that I use a glass bed so your temps may be a bit lower. Use increment of 5 degrees when testing on yours.

[Scott_Jenkins]

ok thank you, I have all the stuff to put a glass bed with PEI on but I keep procrastinating because I dont want to mess up my printer lol

[Scott_Jenkins]

Im home Trying a new print added a raft, fiddled with a few settings leveled the printer hot and increased the bed temp to 80c looking good so far crossing my fingers

[gomezjj3]

Awesome, let us know how the print did.

[Scott_Jenkins]

I will post pictures after work but this is how it went, the Raft laid down like a dream it looked perfect, then when the print started… I curled and bubbled just like when there was no raft, it makes not sense, but the difference being, it stuck to the raft, mainly because I pushed down on the curls as it did the first layer. In the end the print came out ok and my Dice tower is finally done.

[gomezjj3]

Take a closeup pic of your extruder also.

[gomezjj3]

Take a look at 3dprinterwiki.info. select Duplicator i3 Factory Documentations & Files Then scroll down to Articles and select First Layer Settings. Good read and well explained. May help you out some.

[Scott_Jenkins]

I will check my settings thank you. Im going to print my design of a 6 sided D3 tonight 6 sided die only 1,2,3 on it for D3 rolls). That may be my initiial layer problem. because I didnt have that problem before. and I did change the layer height a couple times for different prints.

[gomezjj3]

Good deal. You are almost on the home stretch.

[Scott_Jenkins]

I don’t know about that lol, You buy one of these things and you have to pretty much know how they work inside and out. I got some new filament in too.

[Scott_Jenkins]

Ok Pictures the first one is the raft laying down, perfection, Then the first layer same as always… Then a closeup of my extruder. Finally what I took all this time printing this week

[Scott_Jenkins]

Printing my die, I changed the first layer to 90% and it is working great I really think that was my problem, I think

[gomezjj3]

That print looks really good. Tweak that first layer and you should be good from here on out. Nice job.

[gomezjj3]

In my opinion, I think you should go with .3 for your initial layer thickness. It for some reason is what Wanhao profiles are showing. It is what I use for PLA, HIPS, and ABS, and I usually get good results. I know that the 3dprinterwiki.info web site says otherwise, but try both and see which one fixes your air bubbles.

[gomezjj3]

Awesome, see how it goes with that. Save that profile, for future use.

Good luck

[skunkyf]

I get that if i have the fan on for the first layer.

[Scott_Jenkins]

I have found if I Set extruder to 205c and the printbed to 70c it seems to lay down filament fine but the edges of the raft curl up not all of them but like one or 2. Then I was printing a Microsoft Band (stand) it printed fine (except for the raft lifting in the corners) then about 3/4 the way up the neck the neck was all messed up like it had been chewed on, I tried this twice with different results but both times the neck was messed up to a degree, Im also finding that When the filament covers over the filler (triangles) it doesnt cover smoothly or properly, what would cause this?

[Marco_36]

sembra che il piano non sia livellato bene, dove fa le bolle sei più distante dal piano e quindi il materiale non è spalmato bene e lo strato risulta più grosso e non ancorato al letto caldo.

Prova a fare il primo layer più basso con il piano livellato meglio. Porta in temperatura il piatto caldo prima di fare il livellamento anche il vetro si deforma con il calore e si deve assestare.

[Scott_Jenkins]

I have leveled the bed again, I have not installed the glass and PEI yet, Has anyone installed the Z brace Mod I bought the hardware. Is it difficult?