I have been preparing for my 3D Hubs Marvin Test print and haven’t had much success. Please critique my pictures and give any advice. It will be appreciated. Printer: Flashforge Dreamer Filament: Inland PLA Grey Layer Height: .2 mm Extruder Temp: 190*C Bed Temp: 60*C Adhession: Build take Print Speed: 30mm/s Travel Speed: 150mm/s Retraction Length: 3.mm Shell Count: 3 passes Top/Bottom Layers: 3 Fill Density: 10% hexagon Cooling: Fan on 100% after .4mm height
30mm/s is a bit slow for PLA, Flex usually runs that slow.
PLA can run at 50 to 60mm/s, I usually run at these speeds & Extruder at 210, 50 to 60 bed, .17/ .18 layer, bring your travel speed down to about 100.
150 might be jogging the axis a bit and making the prints a bit shaky.
See how you go with this, hope this helps you out a bit.
Greg
Looks like first layer is little high as the first layers have a bit of a gap between lines
Looks like a little under extrusion on the rest and retraction settings could be teaked for blobing
reprint and go up in 5 degree increments up to 220.
See the differnence (190 is on the low end … see where the filament and printer has sweet spot )
What slicer you using?
up your temp to 200*
drop bed to 50*
fill density 15%-20%
up speed to 60mm/s
drop travel speed to 100mm/s
layer 0.18
it is not a bad print i just think you have gone too fast with temps out slightly (i use a creator pro so might flow slightly different) hope it helps you
Print 3 or 4 at a time, gives each layer enough time to cool and you can pick the best one to submit.
Yes If the print is small I usually print 2 or more. I went with 4 on this print. All looked pretty similar.
I’ll give this a try. I guess I kept going the wrong direction with temps and speeds. I will try this today.
I’m using flashprint at the moment. I’ve been trying to put off buying Simply 3D but I’m noticing on certain prints where it would benefit having it. I wI’ll try upping temperatures like you have mentioned.
I will try upping the extruder to 200* and increase by 5 from there till I get best results. I will also lower my bed temp. The 150mm/s did seem fast on travel but it’s worked in the past. I kept the print speed slow because the size of the printended but I will increase the printspeed up to 50mm/s.
Thanks for the speedy replies from everyone. I will try these settings recommended and post up some new pictures.
OK, since its very difficult to translate what I want to say to the pictures, such as “holes in layers, blobs”, etc. I did a graphic for you.
I think you are almost there. But you need some tweaks before you get there. Obviously, you are printing too hot. No question there. If your prints look alot like melted plastic, then you are printing too hot. Hard to tell for sure, as photos of 3d prints always look worse than they really are. But you have obvious signs of overheating. You could try keeping that temperature and printing faster, which leaves plastic in your extruder for less time, which could help.
190 is pretty low, so it could be you are just printing too slow.
Secondly, feel free to use some supports on the top edge of the open face helment (eyebrows) and keychain fob part.
Also, measure your filament. This is key to good prints. This is step one for good prints. Measure width along a stretch of filament with calipers.
I would move away from printing the marvin until you got very good with calibration items. Print a 20mm x 20mm x 10mm cube at 100% infill until you have a really, really nice cube. 100% infill will show you where you are over extruding or underextruding. (over extruding, hump on top. Under extruding = concave or layers not filled in.)
Here is my latest test with the sethings as shown in images. I attached pictures of my settings in flashprint to see if anything looks out of the ordinary. The fan is on 100%after the first layer and my extrusion multiplier is set to 92% which is a higher than it should be by about 2%. I’ve ran a 20×20×20 cube no infill and in vase mode to measure my walls. They came out pretty spot on at 90% extrusion multiplier, but it appeared I was still under extruding so I bumped it up 2% after releveling the bed. One thing I have noticed is when I ran .1 layer heights, I was able to get a lot better looking print still printing 4 marvins at a time. However they still don’t look like they would pass. I am going to print out some 100% infill blocks to see if I can help dial in the over under extrusion. I am also going to move the same filament to the extruder closer to the print fan and face the marvins towards the print fan to see if that helps anything. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Reduce your travel speed to 85
and I know this is a really silly question but got to ask as it is pla are you printing with door oprn and hood off??? makes a big difference to pla print as it allows better cooling if you do (i know it is a noob comment but i did it to start with )
Yes it is Inland PLA ( cheap and readily available in my area). I do in fact have the hood off and door open. Next thing I might try is adding a large fan blowing into the build chamber to enhance cooling even more ( read somewhere it sometimes works).
Yep, I use Inland PLA too as it is very cheap, but the quality sucks. I tend to print Inland around 220 deg. Smoother flow.
For your Marvin, you may wish to use another filament
Cheap PLA might be your problem. If you have some calipers check the size. I bet it is not actually 1.75 mm. You can adjust this setting in Simplify 3D but I am not familiar with the software you are using and am not sure if you can make that change. I would think you can.
Also, just and FYI, I really like Hatchbox PLA and it is not very expensive. Check amazon or megalowmart.
One setting that would make him look a lot better if your slicing tool has the capability.
External Fill Pattern: Concentric
You are printing him with a rectilinear external fill pattern. If he was printed using the Concentric Fill Pattern all the rounded edges (his feet and top of his head would print quickly and look alot better.
My 2 cents.
