I used some foam as a dust filter for the filament, but hadn’t even thought about humidity effects. I’ll unload and store it in a drawer or something when not printing, probably with some desiccant for good measure. Thanks so much for your advice : )
First question (not a criticism): Was there a reason that the company chose the MB 2X? Unless ABS plastic was a requirement, it is in most cases, best to start with a PLA printer. There are arguments to this topic, but using a PLA printer is easier, especially if your are new to 3D.
The X in the 2X denotes Experimental. It’s best to consider it permanently as a “Beta” release of MB’s dual extrusion machine; and purposely so. ABS is more susceptible to ambient conditions, slicing programming, tolerances…stuff. It’s a tinkerer’s printer for those with some experience,interest and time to Experiment. I work with groups new to 3D and I, and my fellow volunteers, always recommend a single extruder PLA machine.
As noted in other comments (I may be repeating advice of others, sorry) make sure you have the latest firmware update.
Makerbot has a new desktop for slicing: Makerbot Print. But, I would recommend firmly that you use the original Makerbot Desktop for the 2X. It’s tried and true and is hand-and-glove with the Replicator 2 through Replicator 5th Gens. Run through set up again. When setting nozzle height, the friction created using the piece of paper as the measurement should be SLIGHT. Too tight and your just making the nozzles plow through the paper, essentially in a furrow.
Keep us updated:)
I completely agree with you in that we should have started with a single extruder printer, especially since no one here is particularly experienced in actually running a 3D printer. I’ve been told that multiple people in another engineering department also wanted to make use of the printer, did their research and recommended the 2X to the person making the purchase. Why they would recommend an experimental printer to people new to printing, I have no clue. If I had been told ahead of time that we were interested in a 3D printer, I would have asked for a recommendation from my former professors, who bought PLA printers that I’ve personally seen great results from. The stronger the better for our purposes, so we should have gone with PLA.
Based on the responses I’m getting, I think I’m going to be tinkering with the leveling a lot. I had it way too far away when I first leveled it (could get the print to stick), but the leveling has been tricky to perfect so far and I have a feeling these surface issues might not be as bad if I brought it up a bit more from where it’s set now. I realize it’s an experimental printer, but I feel it should be able to produce better quality prints than this.
Thanks for the tips : ) I’ll play around with more prints tomorrow and see if I can get better results.
Common problem; to many cooks in the stew. And engineering departments are notorious for bulking up on whatever gadgetry they can get for a certain budget at the expense of others who’s job does not require any expertise in the technology. I see it in schools, a lot. They’ll spend $10k or more on a Stratasys (MB’s Parent co.) and then spend and inordinate amount of time learning to run it - in lieu of spending a few thousand for a Makerbot, in this case - and accomplish the same thing.
Regardless, remember to adhere to the leveling plate procedure, and that the drag the nozzle creates on the paper is slight. The way I judge slight is sliding the paper - after each adjustment of the screws - into the space between the nozzle and plate to anticipate ANY resistance entering that void. Stop. Move on to the next (adjusting while letting the paper remain in place during each adjustment of the screw is deceptive. The nozzle compresses the paper at the point of contact - essentially negating any progress you’re making).
TIP: After completing the entire leveling process, there may still be one nozzle that feels a bit tighter than the others. Go ahead and tweak that one and call it good. That should eliminate the Z from your troubleshooting.
Thanks for these “updates” 360 alaska! I hadn’t seen the dual extruder ‘fix’ before- other than written form. Obviously, according to the change dates/“improvements” these people have no clue what they’re doing. I installed Sailfish, ( took me a while- 2x runthrough) but iz kool cuz I can adjust ‘on the fly’ as a CNC Mill. and I’m also running Vesion 1.35 as my slicer. As mb will no longer be supporting “old” equipment, I am moving to a different, smarter company.
The horror stories about the Smart Extruder are over; for some time. Makerbot made updates and eventually offered exchanges for bad ones (keep in mind operator error is very often at play). Fact is they were still the number 1 selling manufacture during that period. But whatever. The true problems with it were rectified after 6 months.
The current generation of Makerbots, the + series are fantastic. There faster, quieter, the Smart Extruder + underwent a massive testing phase with MB’s parent company Stratasys. They had extruders on the benches that were still operating at spec after 1200hrs and purring happily along. The new slicer accepts native modeling files too, a godsend.
Best best part? The Replicator + is $400 less that the previous generation, Replicator 5 (some of that is the result of succumbing to the need to move manufacturing to Mexico:(
I recommend it. I’ve got one and love it. Never had a problem with my Rep 5 either.
Zortrax makes really good ABS printers, perfect prints almost every time and really easy to use. Not trying to promote Zortrax since now I mosty use the ultimaker 2+. I recently bought the BCN Sigma r17 but had all sorts of issues with it and ended up returning for ultimaker 3.