I wanted to use Print instead of Desktop, but it turns out that the 2X isn’t compatible with Print, so there’s not much I can do about that. Personally, I would have preferred we start off with a single extruder printer like the Z18, but I’ve been told the 2X came highly recommended to the higher ups that decided to make the purchase.
Skip to main content
do not use the test files to gauge your quality. The test files nearly work as they stand. Open MB desktop and upload your own small model with default settings and go from there. 230c is okay ABS do not go above 240.
1. I know that some of the prints we’re going to require will need dual extrusion, so I guess I’ll just stick with Makerbot Desktop.
2. It’s leaking out of the nozzle, not near the heat block. And the leaking happens with the IDLE nozzle, the one that shouldn’t be extruding any filament while the other nozzle extrudes. That’s when the resulting clumps drag across the print (getting stuck in it) and become a problem.
3. I’ll definitely relevel. I felt like it was pretty well leveled for the most recent test print, but it can’t hurt to try again. My tendency is too level with the nozzle too close to the printbed, so that’s what I’m usually wary of.
It’s normal to leak a little during heat up but generally it should go straight down, if your level is good the string or blob will come off when the print makes that initial priming line to get things started.
so what we’ve established so far:
1. Properly level the bed
2. Properly level the extruders between each other.
3. Maybe sllow it down a little.
other thoughts:
4. Make sure your filament hasn’t absorbed any moisture:
https://www.matterhackers.com/news/filament-and-water 2
5. Consider ordering PETG from micro center, PET is a filiment with the strength charitoristics of abs but the print characteristics of pla. For your purposes it can be considered a direct replacement, I have a 2x and 2 5th gen printers and 1 6th gen printer and I love PET!
I used some foam as a dust filter for the filament, but hadn’t even thought about humidity effects. I’ll unload and store it in a drawer or something when not printing, probably with some desiccant for good measure. Thanks so much for your advice : )
First question (not a criticism): Was there a reason that the company chose the MB 2X? Unless ABS plastic was a requirement, it is in most cases, best to start with a PLA printer. There are arguments to this topic, but using a PLA printer is easier, especially if your are new to 3D.
The X in the 2X denotes Experimental. It’s best to consider it permanently as a “Beta” release of MB’s dual extrusion machine; and purposely so. ABS is more susceptible to ambient conditions, slicing programming, tolerances…stuff. It’s a tinkerer’s printer for those with some experience,interest and time to Experiment. I work with groups new to 3D and I, and my fellow volunteers, always recommend a single extruder PLA machine.
As noted in other comments (I may be repeating advice of others, sorry) make sure you have the latest firmware update.
Makerbot has a new desktop for slicing: Makerbot Print. But, I would recommend firmly that you use the original Makerbot Desktop for the 2X. It’s tried and true and is hand-and-glove with the Replicator 2 through Replicator 5th Gens. Run through set up again. When setting nozzle height, the friction created using the piece of paper as the measurement should be SLIGHT. Too tight and your just making the nozzles plow through the paper, essentially in a furrow.
Keep us updated:)
I completely agree with you in that we should have started with a single extruder printer, especially since no one here is particularly experienced in actually running a 3D printer. I’ve been told that multiple people in another engineering department also wanted to make use of the printer, did their research and recommended the 2X to the person making the purchase. Why they would recommend an experimental printer to people new to printing, I have no clue. If I had been told ahead of time that we were interested in a 3D printer, I would have asked for a recommendation from my former professors, who bought PLA printers that I’ve personally seen great results from. The stronger the better for our purposes, so we should have gone with PLA.
Based on the responses I’m getting, I think I’m going to be tinkering with the leveling a lot. I had it way too far away when I first leveled it (could get the print to stick), but the leveling has been tricky to perfect so far and I have a feeling these surface issues might not be as bad if I brought it up a bit more from where it’s set now. I realize it’s an experimental printer, but I feel it should be able to produce better quality prints than this.
Thanks for the tips : ) I’ll play around with more prints tomorrow and see if I can get better results.
Common problem; to many cooks in the stew. And engineering departments are notorious for bulking up on whatever gadgetry they can get for a certain budget at the expense of others who’s job does not require any expertise in the technology. I see it in schools, a lot. They’ll spend $10k or more on a Stratasys (MB’s Parent co.) and then spend and inordinate amount of time learning to run it - in lieu of spending a few thousand for a Makerbot, in this case - and accomplish the same thing.
Regardless, remember to adhere to the leveling plate procedure, and that the drag the nozzle creates on the paper is slight. The way I judge slight is sliding the paper - after each adjustment of the screws - into the space between the nozzle and plate to anticipate ANY resistance entering that void. Stop. Move on to the next (adjusting while letting the paper remain in place during each adjustment of the screw is deceptive. The nozzle compresses the paper at the point of contact - essentially negating any progress you’re making).
TIP: After completing the entire leveling process, there may still be one nozzle that feels a bit tighter than the others. Go ahead and tweak that one and call it good. That should eliminate the Z from your troubleshooting.
Thanks for these “updates” 360 alaska! I hadn’t seen the dual extruder ‘fix’ before- other than written form. Obviously, according to the change dates/“improvements” these people have no clue what they’re doing. I installed Sailfish, ( took me a while- 2x runthrough) but iz kool cuz I can adjust ‘on the fly’ as a CNC Mill. and I’m also running Vesion 1.35 as my slicer. As mb will no longer be supporting “old” equipment, I am moving to a different, smarter company.
right on MC! they are running “wide open” which as a beginner, I thought those speeds were ‘normal’
Quick update: so after finally doing some speed and leveling tweaks (thanks to everyone who recommended that!) we finally got a successful print out of the 2X (though I suspect the nozzle may still be a touch too low). However, we all agree that it took an inordinate amount of work to get a single print due to the finicky nature of the 2X and are looking into a different Makerbot model (the higher ups want to avoid switching brands at this point). Any recommendations that are similar in price to the 2X and good for less-seasoned users? I was worried about the other models because I’ve heard horror stories about the Smart Extruder, but have heard that the Smart Extruder + has made huge improvements in terms of design.