Good idea, I believe Marvin is included on the SD Card, I will print this with the silver Prusa filament, followed by the Colorfabb. I will post results once the prints are done!
I would work on a .2 version and get that nailed first before fighting with .1!
Remember temps are going to be one of the big issues on Marvin so printing 2-4 at a time can help. Temp on yours doesn’t seem bad though. Speed may be a factor. I printed at about 20mm/sec but then heat can become a factor more.
I think the settings are close so small changes and one at a time to see the effects of the change.
Some of the problem areas are good on yours like the key chain ring.
I haven’t used slic3r much, but is there a minimum layer time? It looks kind of like the layers aren’t having much time to cool. Try printing one with a cooling tower next to it (print a Marvin and a simple small cylinder at the same height as the Marvin) at the same time and see if that helps. It also looks like you may have some z wobble. Make sure you y and x belts aren’t too tight, as that can cause the same issues. Print a 20mm calibration cube with low infill and extended in the z axis to 100 or 200 as well. This should give you an idea if you have z wobble around a certain height. Once it’s done if there is ringing around 110mm you know that something goes wrong at that height. I had an issue where my smooth rod for the right side of z was a little bowed, and at 140mm it bowed inwards, causing the x axis belt tension to get thrown off, causing some issues. Let me know if any of this helps.
I have finished another 200 and 100 micron print. I believe 200 microns should be good to go now. 100 microns is still weird.
These were printed using the default settings from Prusa Slic3r preset. Temperatures for both are 195°C / 60°C. For the 100 micron version I even included a wipe tower…
I think the white colorfabb pla looks good too using the same settings…
