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Apr 2017

Hello, what speed did you use ? Have you try with Cura ? I have the same printer as you, in kit, and i had some issue with slicer, this is why i use Cura and the result are compliant with my expectations now. Z adjust is also -0.300 to get a good first layer. Let us know ! For economy silver PLA from Colorfabb (2.2kg) i put 213° for hot end and 60° for bed. ED

The live z adjust is dependant on each individual persons printer and the height of their PINDA probe, which is manually adjusted

Exactly!

I don’t know how many I have seen with damaged beds because someone said “set you live Z at xxx” or “you live Z needs to be at” and then they crash the nozzle into the bed.

Correct,

My PLA live z-adjust is at -0.615 mm. Which makes the first layer look perfectly fine.

I have done another print yesterday, I will upload the result in a few hours. I have reset all my changes in the printer profile and used the default setup. On top of that I have tensioned the belts a little more (Not sure if this had any effect). But the print came out much much better.

Pictures will follow soon as I probably need to tweak it some more!

He looks pretty good.

I would work on a .2 version and get that nailed first before fighting with .1!

Remember temps are going to be one of the big issues on Marvin so printing 2-4 at a time can help. Temp on yours doesn’t seem bad though. Speed may be a factor. I printed at about 20mm/sec but then heat can become a factor more.

I think the settings are close so small changes and one at a time to see the effects of the change.

Some of the problem areas are good on yours like the key chain ring.

Thanks for this video!

I was having these oscilations as well and I thought it was normal. Now after the calibration the temperature is SPOT on!

I haven’t used slic3r much, but is there a minimum layer time? It looks kind of like the layers aren’t having much time to cool. Try printing one with a cooling tower next to it (print a Marvin and a simple small cylinder at the same height as the Marvin) at the same time and see if that helps. It also looks like you may have some z wobble. Make sure you y and x belts aren’t too tight, as that can cause the same issues. Print a 20mm calibration cube with low infill and extended in the z axis to 100 or 200 as well. This should give you an idea if you have z wobble around a certain height. Once it’s done if there is ringing around 110mm you know that something goes wrong at that height. I had an issue where my smooth rod for the right side of z was a little bowed, and at 140mm it bowed inwards, causing the x axis belt tension to get thrown off, causing some issues. Let me know if any of this helps.

What speed are you printing at? Maybe try slowing down a bit?

For me this looks quite normal. Try switching to 100 microns and maybe try a lower temperature.

I have finished another 200 and 100 micron print. I believe 200 microns should be good to go now. 100 microns is still weird.

These were printed using the default settings from Prusa Slic3r preset. Temperatures for both are 195°C / 60°C. For the 100 micron version I even included a wipe tower…

I think the white colorfabb pla looks good too using the same settings…

I did not read through all the replies, but I am having the greatest success using the Prusa’s Slic3r version.

I used the recommend settings for the most part. For Marvin, just select detailed.

Also, on Printer: Settings → Mode – > High Power

Settings → SD Card → Normal