Hi Bavilo, I also had those issues and what I ended up doing was buying the silicone socks from e3d and did the PID tuning with the sock on. After that it came out perfect It has to do with the temperature deviation being to big… Here is a link to a video explaining how you can do it: E3D Silicone Sock on Original Prusa i3 MK2 + PID Tuning - YouTube 27
I haven’t used slic3r much, but is there a minimum layer time? It looks kind of like the layers aren’t having much time to cool. Try printing one with a cooling tower next to it (print a Marvin and a simple small cylinder at the same height as the Marvin) at the same time and see if that helps. It also looks like you may have some z wobble. Make sure you y and x belts aren’t too tight, as that can cause the same issues. Print a 20mm calibration cube with low infill and extended in the z axis to 100 or 200 as well. This should give you an idea if you have z wobble around a certain height. Once it’s done if there is ringing around 110mm you know that something goes wrong at that height. I had an issue where my smooth rod for the right side of z was a little bowed, and at 140mm it bowed inwards, causing the x axis belt tension to get thrown off, causing some issues. Let me know if any of this helps.
I have finished another 200 and 100 micron print. I believe 200 microns should be good to go now. 100 microns is still weird.
These were printed using the default settings from Prusa Slic3r preset. Temperatures for both are 195°C / 60°C. For the 100 micron version I even included a wipe tower…
I think the white colorfabb pla looks good too using the same settings…
It has to do with the temperature deviation being to big… Here is a link to a video explaining how you can do it: E3D Silicone Sock on Original Prusa i3 MK2 + PID Tuning - YouTube 27
