I have found that if I can force the rafts to be on and the resolution to be at least 0.4 with supports on I can get some things that are recognizable. For instance see the pictures below. This is what I printed this morning for a student. I have included a picture of what was designed as well as how it turned out. As you can see. Part of it turned out…OK… part of it is not even close.
The extruder is set to 215c normally Makerbot told me to take it down to 210c so I have done that but it hasn’t seemed to help. When I load and unload I let the color go the whole way through and it produces an even flow so it seems to flow ok. Makerbot had me check all kinds of things. Some things on a plate print fine and some don’t - see the pics I just put up of the crocodile and the bird for mutualism. It is crazy.
I have found that if I delete the program off the computer and reinstall I can get one print every day (the school won’t let downloading for fear of viruses on their networks) so I have to take it home every day to do this. I do this with my laptop, my husband’s laptop, and the laptop for the printer. I try to get 3 prints per day. If one messes up, I am out of luck for that printer every day. Yes I am still in touch with Makerbot every chance I get. Level the plate after every print to make sure it is correct. I can’t find any functions other than the D in Tinkercad that lay things flat on the plate to reduce floating. I think that is me being new and EVERYONE has been so helpful! The students and I are learning TONS!
Thank you so much.
I have found that if I delete the program off the computer and reinstall I can get one print every day (the school won’t let downloading for fear of viruses on their networks) so I have to take it home every day to do this. I do this with my laptop, my husband’s laptop, and the laptop for the printer. I try to get 3 prints per day. If one messes up, I am out of luck for that printer every day. Yes I am still in touch with Makerbot every chance I get. Level the plate after every print to make sure it is correct. I can’t find any functions other than the D in Tinkercad that lay things flat on the plate to reduce floating. I think that is me being new and EVERYONE has been so helpful! The students and I are learning TONS!
Thank you so much.
On the replicator 2 this kind of issue come from the engine wire, make some resherch on GOOGLE with “REPLICATOR WIRE ISSUE” maybe is the same one !
Sometimes part tip over. Sometimes there’s bad adhesion. Sometimes I’ve even notices that makerware even goofs up and doesn’t get it right. I’d suggest to make sure the build plate is level by printing a one layer leveling file and inspect the bottom of the file to look for even pressure of the filament. For me and my 2X I always wipe the kapton build plate with iso alcohol every build for a clean surface.
Makerbot 5th gen is PLA only. I do agree with the possibility of a clogged nozzle.
I don’t think the re-installing the makerbot desktop is actually doing anything. I think you might be tricking yourself into thinking it is helping.
2 ideas here. I had a weird issue once where my screen stopped working. It was all white. I eventually found that if I left the makerbot unplugged for about 3 days, it would get better / go away. I think it was some sort of charge unbalance building up in the control board. But I honestly have no clue. Try unplugging you machine over a 3-4 day weekend (and maybe unplug it at the end of the day every day) and see if that helps.
#2, Also - print SLOWER, print hotter. Adjust your print speed to half what it is now. Under the custom menu - Adjust your temperature up to 216. Adjust all of the extrusion speeds down below 30mm /sec. First layer speed down to 10mm/sec. first layer of raft speed down to 10mm/sec. I think the gears that push the filament are having trouble keeping up with how fast the makerbot is trying to print. There might be something wrong with the smart extruder. I am trying to work you around the problem.
if the above doesn’t completely fix things, try adjusting the filament diameter down 0.1mm to 0.3mm.
Finally, add more shells under “model properties”. Try 3-4.
HOLD ON!
Let’s get the basics out of the way first before we make this instructor go way too far into places she doesn’t have a need to. She has to teach her students first, not research the hacks and tricks of the machine. And we don’t want her to screw any warranty protections she may have on the machine. Contact me through the hub and we’ll work this out together. Allow some time (not your lunch-break:)
Do not use modeling software to trick your 3d printers into behaving. There are tricks however, but that’s not going to help you in this case.
Cheers!
I wonder if this just comes down to the raft model spacing… Try bumping that down a bit. Too much and you might get a part that wont come off the raft, but if you get 100% good prints, its a step in the right direction. You might need to bump down the raft model spacing option for smaller prints. Been thinking about it all day, things I have experienced. Makerbot 5th gen is officially on my not recommended list in terms of reliability.
I use the painters tape that came with the printer - I clean it every 3-4 prints with alcohol but not every time. I will start doing that. That is an easy thing to do. Since this problem has started and Makerbot had me level the plate again, I have been leveling it before every print. The thing is sometimes it doesn’t print the bottom layer for it to adhere to and I think that is my major issue.
I only have the makerbot PLA filament from the makerbot site so that is a plus. When it does print it prints beautifully and it appears to be random when it decides to print and when it doesn’t. Some files will turn out just fine and others not.
I have tried to heat the extruder without the filament and it keeps telling me to load the filament. I am doing something wrong there. Test prints from the machine always come out right. I will keep trying.
Thank you for your help
ch4s3r
18
Hi Sue! I have been wondering what software are you actually using to print? Tinkercad or the makerbot slicer?
Are you always printing with 0.4 mm layer height at least?
The max layer height recomended for a 0.4 nozzle is 0.36 mm. If the leyer height is higher the layers won’t stick well to each other.
The problem will be worse and much notable in models with smaller surface (as shown in the pict.).
Reduce the layer height to 0.15 mm (even if the prints take too much longer). If it solve the problem, increase gradually your layer height.
Don’t just math it out. Its not that simple. Things will work - there are other issues going on here. the smart extruder is far from perfect. there are a wide range of values that will work. 0,04 is not statistically significant!
I would disagree (with respect) about the .4 resolution’s significance. It’s too high for printing. For a decent fusing to the previous layer not enough surface area would, at default printing speed, would have the time to fuse (I hope that’s clear(?))
Benefit of saving time wouldn’t be worth the trouble.
Even if printing speed was slowed down, it would defeat any attempt to save time.
I her case, I’m not convinced the problem is the extruder. And if her printer is less than a year old she’s working with a later version of the extruder - a 2.0 so to speak - and most of the glitches with that version had to do with operator error.
I’ve ordered the newly release Smart Extruder +, massive testing and collaboration with Stratasys went into this one.
Can’t Wait!!
Respects,
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Don’t for get about the “integrity” of the files created by your students. Have you changed any techniques, methods, modeling software recently?
I use Meshmixer quite often to analyze an object for defects in the model. It’s open source. People also use Netfabb (sp?) to do this.
Double check to make sure the filament IS PLA. I made a mistake ordering without check to make sure of that.
After a few prints, the points where the extruder checks for leveling will develop divits, or even holes in the tape, screwing up subsequent points the extruder checks for leveling. You can save on tape if you simply carve out a section - a square - around that and or other check points and stick another piece of tape in it’s place.
I only have Makerbot filament. I keep it in the plastic bags with the little silicon packets to keep it dry when not in use. Even though I didn’t know any better until reading everyone’s posts here, I figured there must be a reason they are shipping it in bags with absorbing packets…lol. Common sense can go a long way sometimes. I can easily change the tape I have tons. I will do that Monday when I get to school. Easy enough
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