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May 2015

I cut 1/8 phenolic plates and clip them to the heat bed. Once the part I’d complete the phenolic plate is removed and since it is flexible it pops right off. I have found that all filament types easily stick to class 10 phenolic. I use hairspray for PLA and T-Glass and Elmer’s glue stick for ABS and Nylon.

I use the same “blue tape” that came with the flashforge. I LOVE it, but yes it is a pain sometimes to get a part off. I don’t have an issue with this anymore though. This is what I do. 1st) I print with S3D and start with 60C heated bed for first layer, then I drop it by ~5C each additional layer or two. I don’t know what slicer you use but I would give that a shot.2nd) i use a loose razor blade (so it can lay flat against the bed) to just get part of the blade under any part of the printed part. I then leave it there under the part and get a thin metal spatula and put it under the razor blade and move it around under the part till it pops. Hope this helps. My word of advice is don’t get rid of the “blue tape”/buildtak that comes with the printer it does work a lot better than glass. I switched out the blue tape (which again isn’t really tape http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/flashforge-pre-cut-blue-heat-plate-print-tape.html 6) for glass and found myself digging the blue tape out of the trash and re-applying it.

Glass bed McMaster-Carr 11

1/4" z stop spacer

Purple can of Auqu Net hairspray (apply while hot)

Bed temp 80C

The part will hold nice and tight when the bed is hot. When the plate cools down, the part will pop off on its own.

Rumor has it, sugar water works well and holds up for multiple prints.

I am using a mirrored tile (Ikea Sorli) heated to 80 deg C and cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol. The PLA extrudes at 210 deg C. Sticks very well during printing with zero turn ups. Impossible to remove until the glass is at room temperature. The parts just snap off. No more blue tape, glue sticks, hairspray or sugar syrup for me…

if you use cura you can add a brim to your print, which is basicly a thin layer beneath your print. This makes it for me very easy to remove everything. I then cut off the brim or even just tear it off sometimes. Works like a charm!

your bed level is maybe too low

preheat your bed to 70-80° after print help to remove it