I cut 1/8 phenolic plates and clip them to the heat bed. Once the part I’d complete the phenolic plate is removed and since it is flexible it pops right off. I have found that all filament types easily stick to class 10 phenolic. I use hairspray for PLA and T-Glass and Elmer’s glue stick for ABS and Nylon.
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I use the same “blue tape” that came with the flashforge. I LOVE it, but yes it is a pain sometimes to get a part off. I don’t have an issue with this anymore though. This is what I do. 1st) I print with S3D and start with 60C heated bed for first layer, then I drop it by ~5C each additional layer or two. I don’t know what slicer you use but I would give that a shot.2nd) i use a loose razor blade (so it can lay flat against the bed) to just get part of the blade under any part of the printed part. I then leave it there under the part and get a thin metal spatula and put it under the razor blade and move it around under the part till it pops. Hope this helps. My word of advice is don’t get rid of the “blue tape”/buildtak that comes with the printer it does work a lot better than glass. I switched out the blue tape (which again isn’t really tape http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/flashforge-pre-cut-blue-heat-plate-print-tape.html 6) for glass and found myself digging the blue tape out of the trash and re-applying it.
Glass bed McMaster-Carr 11
1/4" z stop spacer
Purple can of Auqu Net hairspray (apply while hot)
Bed temp 80C
The part will hold nice and tight when the bed is hot. When the plate cools down, the part will pop off on its own.
Rumor has it, sugar water works well and holds up for multiple prints.
Hi FrontWolf,
I tried a lot of things to get PLA print in tip top condition with the greatest ease of use, and the best, easiest advice I can give is this…
1- Do not heat your print bed with PLA. Heating the bed will only keep your PLA soft and therefore cause it to deform.
2- Put a small fan blowing at your print, which will cool the PLA quickly after it extrudes. Watch the difference this makes.
I experimented with this and it honestly is a game changer, your print quality will skyrocket. No more bending and drooping, no more super-stuck parts. Try this out on a small print, one that you’ve printed before so you can see the difference.
Good luck out there!
FFUZZ3D
This is good advice, you’re right, you are taking the problem at the source, blowing air to the extrusion head is a game changer for PLA especially, try this first @rpelissier !
I usually only put a fan on it when printing with large overhangs and such but you are completely correct. MAJOR difference.
When I got my printer, I was unable to print things like the makerbot T-Rex because the overhangs warped and curled soo badly. I have printed about 30 of them since adding a small fan 
Awesome replies here! I think there are some really good ideas here. I ordered a special glass almost. Glass is at room temperature a bit colder than the normal heat bed. But I can try this first in 3 weeks, because of the delivery time.
I also switched to Kapton tape at the moment. The result is nearly the same.
What I will do now is to try FFUZZ3D hints. But it could be, that the first layer will not stick. But I think temperature is the point. Some hints with more than 60°C don’t seem to be very helpful in my case.
Thank you guys! 
Thank you! The FF Bluetape is really great and I think I will use this furthermore. I almost throw 2 of them in my trash, because some parts sticks so hard that I damaged and bend the Bluetape. Further prints failed because of bumps.
I will mix your hints with FFUZZ3D hints. This sounds like the best result!
I’ll keep you up to date!