Do you mean the lifted part of the brim? It was flat when it started but the warping pulled up parts. I’m hoping I will find the issues disappear when I try glass. We’ll see soon, I hope. Just wish I could print on the Wanhao material without a problem.
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no, I even change the glass plate from print to print and I don’t have to level the bed.
Last week I printed a box 10cm * 10cm * 10cm, with 2 mm wall, without any issues ( hatchbox ABS ) bed at 90 extruder at 245.
Maybe is the material?, with cheap ABS I struggle sometimes, poor layer adhesion, warping etc…
Hello, I think it is the shape you try to print. The pilars beside the half round shape will shrink and pull at the bottom underneath the half round shape. Try to print the shape upside down with support material.
Hi @CaptainCEF it’s not unusual to find PETG warping, it’s usually less prone to warp than ABS, but it’s still a possibility. PETG really likes an enclosed printer, but it’s possible to print with an open one, you just need to solve the problem of adhesion and that can be tricky with PETG. @Gerardo_Oliva, @JoPri with the right surface, it’s not a good idea to squish PETG onto the surface as it can bond too well, most filament manufacturers recommend a small z-lift compared to PLA or others.
I’ve successfully printed with PETG on an open machine, but I used a combination of Scotch Blue tape and Elmer’s Purple Glue or 3DLac. No problems with warp, but removing the prints does require dousing in IPA, which is a pain.
I’m now using the PrintBite bed surface and that works a treat, but it’s an enclosed machine.
In short, I’d say you need to ramp up your “stickiness” on the bed, keep the bed temp high (around 70C - 80C) and be prepared to have more work to do to release the print at the end.
tks for that knowledge!, I will remember!, not printing in PETG for the moment but maybe in the future!.
Just a couple of one questions… you said that if you print too close to the bed it can bond too well… so I guess is hard to remove it from the bed later. But then you say that your way it’s also hard to remove.
so, which way is less hard to remove?
if you print in a glass plate, doesn’t it react like ABS and sticks out when the glass is cold?
@Gerardo_Oliva I once lost a glass bed to a PETG print when I printed directly onto the glass. I welded itself so well that it broke away shards of glass on removal.
The blue tape and glue stick/3DLac method is a pain to remove, but it’s easy enough to actually do and has little chance of damaging the bed.
When i first started to use PET filaments i had the same issue, the filament was welded to the bed and while removing it some shards of glass came along, yet i still print my PET filament on glass all the time, the only difference when i use PET is that I put an additional layer of 3D lac on it, since than I didn’t had any issues with the PET welding to the glass anymore.
@JoPri indeed, it’s weird isn’t it? The material is sticking too well to the glass, so we solve it by adding some glue!!
My own experience with PETG:
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Smart Materials PETG (smartfil)
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240ºC/80º, no fan for the 3 first layers, 50% onwards
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Open Original Prusa i3 MK2S, PEI sheet on heated bed
I have NO warp at all, even hi surface pieces are really hard to release from the bed. This is a very nice and easy to print ABS substitute for me.
I print a lot of PETG. I use almost exclusively one of my MK2 printers with a PEI bed. Some tricks to help reduce over adhesion are a spray and wipe with original Windex. Also I have actually wiped the bed with the palm of my hand!
I usually try to remove the print as it is cooling somewhere around 40-50 degrees.
I don’t recall having warping issues but I also almost never use a cooling fan.
One main thing with PETG is it does not like being squished. Do your bed prep right and then almost let the extrusions just lay down onto the bed.
Once you get the hang of PETG it is so easy!