NO NOT BUY XYZPrinters!

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T14:32:19.000Z

It was just for loading the pla the first time from abs. We couldn’t get the extruder hot enough with the pla cartridge to extrude the abs through properly. After the initial loading of pla everything was fine we could switch from pla to pla with no issues. Sorry I should have clarified it was only on the initial switch from abs to pla.

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T14:38:47.000Z

I just flashed mine. I’m using Chuck Hellebyche settings from YouTube and tweaking as I go. If you Google search you can find many set ups. Voltivo and solid forum have lots of info. Google abs or pla with repetier and DaVinci. It won’t nessicarily get you perfect prints everything but then neither does xyz.

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T14:49:21.000Z

I just flashed mine. I’m using Chuck Hellebyche settings from YouTube and tweaking as I go. If you Google search you can find many set ups. Voltivo and solid forum have lots of info. Google abs or pla with repetier and DaVinci. It won’t nessicarily get you perfect prints everytime but then neither does xyz.

tk0084 · 2016-01-26T14:49:50.000Z

That makes sense. Thanks for the update.

tk0084 · 2016-01-26T14:52:42.000Z

I starting using simplify3D which has been an amazing software. My only real need is a filament resetter which a friend of mine is building so I’m not sure the advantages of repetier at this point. I’m still considering flashing one of my machines to try it out but I have lots of printing to do so I can’t afford to have a machine down for days or more.

defier123 · 2016-01-26T15:05:30.000Z

Learning the menus. What I should or shouldn’t change. Things like, being able to adjust the temperature on the fly, is great. Using exotics and plastics other than abs/pla is nice too. And replacing the printhead with a j-head seemed way easier to do, than any of the videos I watched.

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T16:13:44.000Z

I can only speak of my experience with wytek cartridge ressetter and DaVinci 1.0 original. I have been using it since I purchased me printer a year and a half ago. The newest update I didn’t click yes to BTW locked me out and softblocked my unit. I was able to revert the firmware back to the one that came with the disc FW 1.1.g tried to print slicer converted code and received nothing but errors machine wouldn’t print. My solution was to scrap the xyz crapware and go repetier. So far it is working for me.

3dpGeek · 2016-01-26T17:21:11.000Z

I didn’t know they had a promotion upgrade your shooter for free. I had to send my printer in for warranty work and I asked if they can upgrade it and they said I paid the price for the new.

tk0084 · 2016-01-26T17:28:09.000Z

I called and complained (knowing what the problem was) and they asked how old was it and basically said if it’s under a year old it would be under warranty and they could send me the PLA promotion link. A new extruder costs $100 so a free extruder is worth it BUT you have to have a 1.0 AND it has to have a certain serial number set. 3DP01 or something like that. The duo and aio are listed on their site.

If if you never registered your machine just register it with a date within a year and provide them an image of an invoice for your machine with the date you put as the purchase as the invoice date.

My machine that needed it I bought used but I said new to them.

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T17:40:00.000Z

I had wiring issues the first month with the cheap black extruder couple and the x axis wiring harness they wanted me to send back the whole machine I just voided the Warrantee and fixed it myself. With barrel connectors on the hot end. For 100 bucks I’ll buy a e3d v6. The us store doesn’t ship to Canada anyhow.

3dpGeek · 2016-01-26T18:07:35.000Z

I simplify3d which allows me to control the temperature is in such what’s my next step would be buying a cartridge resetter. I want to replace the hot ends with like a e3d or something similar so I can print materials like stainless steel and carbon fiber and be able to replace the small brass nozzle on the hotend when they wear down.

3dpGeek · 2016-01-26T18:09:15.000Z

Mine was under warranty and I had so many problems with it that they sent it back broken and they just decided to send me a brand new unit which was the 2.0a so I kind of got the free upgrade lol

3dpGeek · 2016-01-26T18:11:19.000Z

If you have a 1.0 or 2.0? I want e3d hotend but I have a 2.0 and I’m not sure if I can buy a dual unit and have them both work.

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T18:18:21.000Z

You can use the end v6 on both sides of the 2.0 thingiverse has everything you need from simple conversion parts to complete modified cartridges moving the heads closer together giving you more of the table to print on.

3dpGeek · 2016-01-26T19:10:52.000Z

Has anyone replaced their hotends with a chimera? Any instructions? Comments? Concerns?

3DCriar · 2016-01-26T22:41:33.000Z

I can’t agree with cbrown35. I have been using XYZPrinting’s 3d printers for more than a year with thousands of printing hours. Right now I have 4 da Vinci 1.0 running at least 12 hours/day. This is a reliable printer, with good quality, extremely easy to use and the best cost vs. benefit. Something I don’t like is the proprietary filament. I have also 2 rep rap prusa that I built myself, 1 Robox, 2 ZMorph3D, 2 M3D, 1 Makerbot2x and used a lot Ultimaker 2 and for hi end services I have used Fortus 400 … So I know very well the qualities’differences between FDM 3D printers. The quality of da Vinci series is very good for a USD 500 printer for ABS and PLA. Similar quality of printing i Makerbot wich doesn’t pay your money back. Hi end 3d Printers such

as ZMorph

and UltimaKer have better resolution… but you’ll pay 4 or 5 times more… I do… as I have some printings with PVA/HIPS support. Regarding the PLA bad of use, that’s necessary to calibrate the bed and unclog the nozzle (after select clean nozzle option at Utilities). Then unload and load again. Try to change the filament cartridge.

3dCriar lab.jpg3264×2448 1.17 MB

Pat_Ayala · 2016-01-26T22:46:31.000Z

I have a friend that owns a robo3d and he doesn’t like it so he built a rerap printer and he said it works better

Cliff_Cannon · 2016-01-26T23:56:28.000Z

On build quality and having a professional look to it even the xyz crapware. Out of the box for $500 USD + shipping you can’t go wrong. I’ve used pruisa kits, reprap, ultimaker, objet and even a fancy $2,000,000 stratsys that will print metal powder at 20microns! On initial out of the gate get you going xyz is hands down the best unit I’ve found for price and ease of learning curve. Did I like proprietary cartridges in only 4 remaining colours? Heck no! Do I like that if you have a problem you have to send your machine back to xyz for service? Heck no!!! 180days warrentee?!?! WTF Do I love that there is a following of didicater tinkers and hackers that have embraced this little (or not so little) 3D printer and made software that enhances the well build design and positive aspects of the machine? HECK YEAH!!! Do the flash make the mods and if your still upset with your $500 printer sell it on eBay and buy yourself a $2000 kit that you have to assemble yourself and tinker with for months before you can even get a decent print out of the thing.

gluepot · 2016-03-07T16:09:39.000Z

This is a common problem with a lot of low end printers. The extruder is really designed for one or the other. I had a Makerbot which recommended PLA but could only manage ABS. When getting my current printer (davinci 1.0) I looked specifically for ABS, I wouldn’t trust putting PLA though it. By rule of thumb, if it has a heated build plate it’s for ABS and if it doesn’t it’s for PLA. More expensive printers I don’t think have this problem (but I’ve not tried)

User_2135 · 2017-06-12T12:01:34.000Z

Can I ask you about the XYZ printer software hacked , so i can download it from somewhere. Thank a lot.

David