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Dec 2016
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Dec 2016
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Joseph_Charles
Dec '16

That machine lists that it uses/supports Repetier. This is the firmware and also a way to serve the machine files to print.

All your needs and documentation are here: https://www.repetier.com/ 1

If I understand things correctly, you will need to assemble your 3D Printer. Of course you might not, I’m not sure how much you paid for it.

If you end up having to assemble it, I think you’re in for a bumpy ride if its your first time!

If your machine comes assembled, there’s a good chance that there is little to no calibration and firmware editing that you will have to do, excluding leveling the bed (which appears to be done via wingnuts on that machine).

DON’T discredit the importance of leveling the print surface. Level it once at each corner and in the center by checking to make sure the distance between the bed and the nozzle is a little tight with a business card. Then check it again. Then check it a third time. If after all of this it’s level everywhere all the time, you got very lucky with a cheap and unwarped printer.

In any case, when I first got my machine I had a lot of the same questions as you.

You can download any slicing software and start hacking up models before you have the machine to familiarize yourself with the software.

For newbies I always recommend Cura, but I’m not sure about the newer versions of it, I’m not upgrading from my old version.

Slic3r, Cura, or Craftware work easily enough, I’ve used all three.

http://slic3r.org/

Mirth
Dec '16

My advice is to open up tabs for every term you don’t know on reprap wiki or something.

Ok, so your slicer chops up an STL file into print code (Gcode) and your host software sends that to the printer. Nowadays the slicer and host are one and the same, thankfully.

Commonly used:

-Repetier

-Slic3r

-Cura

-Mattercontrol (my favourite) it’s got a nice, simple and clean layout with help functions so good for beginners too.

Coincidentally your printer seems very similar to mine.

Your printer will come preloaded with the firmware (turns Gcode into motion) and it’s probably the last stable version of Marlin. If you’re new to programming hold off changing your firmware until you’ve read some tutorials on it.

If you do plan to upgrade your firmware (I recommend) then you can get some of the settings off your machine by digging around in the LCD menu. The rest is more trial and error (such as pinpointing what thermistor is used, tuning it and also making sure motor directions are fine). But basically you just iteratively run your firmware with your settings updated until the fit is perfect.

Things to research:

-your motherboard type (looks like it’ll be a GT2560)

-are your endstops NO or NC

-leadscrews (general understanding is good, I upgraded from threaded rod to proper leadscrews for £15)

-thermistors (100K EPCOS are recommended standard)

-Marlin and how to configure it

Also feel free to ask if you need any help and you may find some of my videos here to be useful or interesting: http://www.youtube.com/user/acrimoniousmirth 1

I also recommend checking out Tom Sanladerer’s channel.

av8r1
Dec '16

Welcome to the fun, frustrating world of 3D printing. There’s a lot to take in, so don’t worry.

Building your own 3D printer is a great way to get started, since you know what everything does. You won’t treat it like an Epson that you’re afraid to open up. When building a printer, make sure everything is square. It is absolutely important that the three axes are perpendicular.

You’re more than likely going to need the Arduino software. Go ahead and grab that, and read up about how Arduino works. The controller board that comes with your printer is more than likely going to be Arduino compatible, and this is the software you need to use to get the firmware onto the board.

You’ll probably start with Marlin firmware. It’s a big series of files but not to worry, the only one you really need to deal with is Configuration.h. All the settings for dimensions, temperatures, end stops etc are in there.

You’ll want to have a functional understanding of G-Code. G-Code is the language of CNC machines. It looks a lot harder than it is, and a complete reference can be found on the Reprap wiki (google 'g code reprap" ). This will help you set up your before print and after print routines, makes it a bit easier to calibrate the machine, and will eventually allow you to pull off some cool printer fu by directly editing part files.

I recommend Tech2C’s youtube channel. In addition to his fun Oz accent, he’s got some great information on calibration, upgrades, different filaments, and even building your own printer from scratch.

Thingiverse is a good resource for objects to print. You’ll probably want to start out downloading STL files rather than designing your own models. There you can find parts to help calibrate and test your printer.

You will need a slicer. That turns an STL model into G-Code your printer can read. I have experience with three: Slic3r, Cura, and Simplify3D. Slic3r is free, and it gives you a lot of options for how to set the printer up, but it can be difficult to dial in if you’re new. Cura is made by Ultimaker and released to anyone who wants it for free. It’s my go-to slicer as it’s simple to use and has some neat “magic” features, but it can be difficult to customize and it’s a little schizophrenic when doing things with a lot of bolt holes. Simplify3D is the best on the market, but it costs $150.

Good luck, have fun, and enjoy the process of drinking from a fire hose!

Onemosquitos
Dec '16

Sturdy and Reliable But you have to Calibrate runs on Merlin with a All in one board and electronic Motor tuning worth what you payed for it Limited to PLA and ABS but you can use PETG and HIPS I warn you not to get a Nozzle smaller then 0.035 thicker more viscus plastics and low Temp plastics (if you intend to cast part’s) will burn and Jam the Nozzle. Also throw out that Aluminum hot end and Use a Block, Cartridge Heater and Brass Barrel. Pain to set up but if you get a Jam it is easy to clear.

dannem
Dec '16

I thought all nozzles where made from brass. I guess i will make a new one as soon as i can measure the other one. I think it will arrive tomorrow but then its work and probably no time to even look at it.