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Dec 2016
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Dec 2016
Dec 2016
chunkysteveo
Dec '16

YouTube is your answer to a lot of this… That’s a Geeetech i3 which is a cheap are cheerful i3 clone. You will see a lot of love and even more hate for this printer. It’s cheap for a reason, but it does work if you are willing to put some time into it and improve on it.

First steps would be to watch all videos on YouTube if you search “Geeetech i3”. That will give you a huge amount of understanding into how to assemble and set it up. Trial and error and testing is all part of 3D printing, it goes with the badge really!

Best of luck with the new printer. Sorry I can’t be more specific now, but there’s so much to go through you can’t really generalise advice.

Steve

Joseph_Charles
Dec '16

That machine lists that it uses/supports Repetier. This is the firmware and also a way to serve the machine files to print.

All your needs and documentation are here: https://www.repetier.com/ 1

If I understand things correctly, you will need to assemble your 3D Printer. Of course you might not, I’m not sure how much you paid for it.

If you end up having to assemble it, I think you’re in for a bumpy ride if its your first time!

If your machine comes assembled, there’s a good chance that there is little to no calibration and firmware editing that you will have to do, excluding leveling the bed (which appears to be done via wingnuts on that machine).

DON’T discredit the importance of leveling the print surface. Level it once at each corner and in the center by checking to make sure the distance between the bed and the nozzle is a little tight with a business card. Then check it again. Then check it a third time. If after all of this it’s level everywhere all the time, you got very lucky with a cheap and unwarped printer.

In any case, when I first got my machine I had a lot of the same questions as you.

You can download any slicing software and start hacking up models before you have the machine to familiarize yourself with the software.

For newbies I always recommend Cura, but I’m not sure about the newer versions of it, I’m not upgrading from my old version.

Slic3r, Cura, or Craftware work easily enough, I’ve used all three.

http://slic3r.org/

F_P_Ideenfabrik
Dec '16

Hoi,
thats pretty simple:
in the description is REPETIER-HOST and PRINTRUN (i.e.) the Software for your Computer:
Instead of Printrun you can use similiar software like CURA etc.
Mostly MARLIN is installed as Firmware, but depending also on the Board the printer has.
i.e. GT2560…
Regards

dannem
Dec '16

Oh i hate beetles… You can only change so much to make it better but i think i will learn more with this than a off the shelf good printer. I have always learned more from fixing problems and solving them. For me its more fun. I only wished i had more free time. And google and youtube arent always the best way to learn. Forums like this is awsome! Thanx

dannem
Dec '16

Hes only 8 so he looks at Swedish video mostly but i will show him the channel. Good tip!

BillDevine
Dec '16

First let me say that I purchased one of these cheap printers made in China.

I had lots of problem assembling it as one of the lead screw nuts was bad (z axis).

Next the circuit board (arduino processor) has had nothing but problems.

I cannot seem to push enough power to the z axis motors infact the wires from the power supply began to melt.

The driver chips (driving the motors) do not have heat sinks and acutally are under rated in my estimate which is probably why I cannot deliver enough power to the z axis motors. Then I have had display problems, which I still have, I plan on buying a different control board and hopefully resolve the problems associated with this one.

I am not saying you will have these problems but they are some things you may run into with cheap Chinese printers.

Mason_Klenklen
Dec '16

Get on youtube and find thomas sanladerer’s channel. He covers printer basic and the firmware and software tool chain you will use.

av8r1
Dec '16

Welcome to the fun, frustrating world of 3D printing. There’s a lot to take in, so don’t worry.

Building your own 3D printer is a great way to get started, since you know what everything does. You won’t treat it like an Epson that you’re afraid to open up. When building a printer, make sure everything is square. It is absolutely important that the three axes are perpendicular.

You’re more than likely going to need the Arduino software. Go ahead and grab that, and read up about how Arduino works. The controller board that comes with your printer is more than likely going to be Arduino compatible, and this is the software you need to use to get the firmware onto the board.

You’ll probably start with Marlin firmware. It’s a big series of files but not to worry, the only one you really need to deal with is Configuration.h. All the settings for dimensions, temperatures, end stops etc are in there.

You’ll want to have a functional understanding of G-Code. G-Code is the language of CNC machines. It looks a lot harder than it is, and a complete reference can be found on the Reprap wiki (google 'g code reprap" ). This will help you set up your before print and after print routines, makes it a bit easier to calibrate the machine, and will eventually allow you to pull off some cool printer fu by directly editing part files.

I recommend Tech2C’s youtube channel. In addition to his fun Oz accent, he’s got some great information on calibration, upgrades, different filaments, and even building your own printer from scratch.

Thingiverse is a good resource for objects to print. You’ll probably want to start out downloading STL files rather than designing your own models. There you can find parts to help calibrate and test your printer.

You will need a slicer. That turns an STL model into G-Code your printer can read. I have experience with three: Slic3r, Cura, and Simplify3D. Slic3r is free, and it gives you a lot of options for how to set the printer up, but it can be difficult to dial in if you’re new. Cura is made by Ultimaker and released to anyone who wants it for free. It’s my go-to slicer as it’s simple to use and has some neat “magic” features, but it can be difficult to customize and it’s a little schizophrenic when doing things with a lot of bolt holes. Simplify3D is the best on the market, but it costs $150.

Good luck, have fun, and enjoy the process of drinking from a fire hose!

Onemosquitos
Dec '16

Sturdy and Reliable But you have to Calibrate runs on Merlin with a All in one board and electronic Motor tuning worth what you payed for it Limited to PLA and ABS but you can use PETG and HIPS I warn you not to get a Nozzle smaller then 0.035 thicker more viscus plastics and low Temp plastics (if you intend to cast part’s) will burn and Jam the Nozzle. Also throw out that Aluminum hot end and Use a Block, Cartridge Heater and Brass Barrel. Pain to set up but if you get a Jam it is easy to clear.

dannem
Dec '16

I thought all nozzles where made from brass. I guess i will make a new one as soon as i can measure the other one. I think it will arrive tomorrow but then its work and probably no time to even look at it.