No, your not doing it right! Take one hand and put your middle and index fingers on the spring screws, while with your thumb pulling back on the arm. Then you are releasing the pressure allowing you to use your other hand to pull the filament slowly up and out, so as to not pull molten plastic out with it!
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Gah, seriously!? I asked both techs I talked to what the proper procedure was, and specifically asked if I should be pushing the latch back like I do when loading, and they both said “no, just heat the extruder and gently pull up on the filament”.
Sigh.
Lol! There is the alt method of reversing your extruder stepper motor, but this would be more awkward and possibly pull molten plastic up with it!
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Okay, well… I will try changing filament again when this next print finishes. Thanks for the tips!
It’s the weirdest thing. I push that tab back, and yeah the filament pulls out nice and easy UNTIL I’ve pulled about a 3" length or so out and then it just stops and refuses to go any farther.
Any thoughts appreciated!
3" sounds like the transition point between the hotend and the housing. Check alignment between the two. A good way to check is by removing the hotend. If its significantly galled by the threads then it wasn’t installed properly.
thormj
March 29, 2016, 10:21pm
42
It’s on the high end, like nylon and ABS… If you have a grooved insulator tube, your chances are better. If you go from bed heat to head heat to print (not the other way around), your chances also go up… Otherwise heat will travel up the filament and melt the ptfe tube.
What would the remedy be?
thormj
March 30, 2016, 2:34am
44
To reiterate - pull back on the extruder idler to release it from the motor. If you’re getting a hang after 3", it sounds like you need to unscrew the springs on the idler so you can get the filament out (it sounds like there’s a molten ball at the end of the filament that doesn’t want to go between the gap in the idler and the hobbed bolt).
If you unscrew the springs (and release the idler completely) and it still doesn’t want to come out, you have to cut it and remove it in 2 pieces:
Pull up the filament as far as it goes
Cool the hotend (just to make it easy for the next bits)
Remove the hotend.
Push the filament down and clip the ball off it so you can remove it.
Reinstall the hotend.
Generally, when I’m pulling used PLA out, I only let it heat to 100C or so before pulling, that way liquid PLA never gets in the teeth or gums up the mechanism.
If this happens a lot, I’d make a PTFE support tube for the Robo3D; see PTFE support for Robo3D | Atlanta3D (I’m adding pictures as I write); bonus is that now Flex won’t kink in your Robo3D!
thormj
March 30, 2016, 2:37am
45
PS. I recommend replacing the 2 Phillips head bolts that hold the hotend in place with socket-head-capscrews (Allen bolts) – available at McMaster or Home Depot. Trying to worm out a stripped head is really annoying.
It would depend on which version of the printer you have. The Post-Kickstarter R1 came with an all-metal Hexagon hotend that is perfectly capable of printing PETG. PETG requires the same temperatures that ABS does, so if your ROBO is stated to handle ABS, it will handle PETG as well. Mine has no mods and prints PETG better than it prints ABS most of the time.
thormj
March 30, 2016, 12:53pm
47
Be sure to blow out the dust with canned air, and I remove the hobbed bolt and attack it with a wire brush (or a file card or a razor blade) to get all the plastic out of the teeth. Mine kept doing that after ~4 hours, so I replaced my bolt with one from eBay and it seems much better (still not sure why). I find that a coat of WS2 lubricant on the hobbed bolt helps a lot – at least the shavings from the eventual jam come out more easily.
Mine has the quick release, though, unless you’re referring to something else?
It’s brand new, the R1+. They say on the website that it can handle just about anything. Safe to try?
What I do on my robo R1+ is hest to about 190c, turn the gear as if you are loading into I see filament coming out of the nozzle then turn the gear counter clockwise until the filament literally pops out the top.
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What I do on my robo R1+ is heat to about 190c, turn the gear as if you are loading into I see filament coming out of the nozzle then turn the gear counter clockwise until the filament literally pops out the top.
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3DNG
March 30, 2016, 4:48pm
52
Try this: Robo 3D R1 Double 40 mm fan setup - hexagon hot end by 3DNG - Thingiverse
Designed it myself.
Try this settings for your marvin print:
Prep bed with Aqua net hairspray
Nozzle: 200°C
Heatbed: 55°C
Speed: 40 mm/s
No supports
Check that your Z offset is adecuate.
After printing the double fan mount check air volume, set fans to 75% first.
Edit your firmware, change overal acceleration to 300-500
Hope this helps!
Sergio R.
Love the file! I have looking for one!
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This worked great, thanks for the tip!
thormj
March 30, 2016, 7:06pm
55
Nevermind… looks like they made an upgrade! Now to print one for my KS Robo3D…
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