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Feb 2016

Hi guys!

So i’ve printed out a couple things of varying complexity, and most have come out pretty good! I decided to try out a Marvin, and overall it came out not bad! But there are some issues. As you can see from my pictures, it looks like there is some warping around the corners of his helmet, as well as the bottom area, around the bridge of his legs. Also the loop on top has a jagged edge, and there is a hole ontop!

My settings are :

  • 225 Extruder
  • 110 Build Plate
  • Print Speed is 30 mm/s
  • Bridging Speed multiplier is 20%
  • 0.1 thickness
  • 20% Infill

I am comfortable adjusting settings, but am not really sure what to change to fix these things. I also printed 2 a little ways apart because I read that that can help with warping. Suggestions?

  • created

    Feb '16
  • last reply

    Feb '16
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lower nozzle temp. i use 215 on marvin. or print 2-4 marvin separate apart.
add more top layer. have you tried 0.20 or 0.15? before going to 0.10?

Hi M4rty,

You need some airflow to the nozzle to get a nice hook. It will also improve the overhangs a lot.

The top of Marvin would look better if you would have more top layers, I’d say min 5. You do not need any infill.

Lowering resolution would also improve the overhangs, but i would go for a good nozzle duct first. That’s a game changer. If you have one already, then you need a stronger fan on it :-).

Once these taken care of, you should even be able to increase the speed.

Good luck!

When I am printing ABS on my FFCP:

-230/110 for the first layer and 220/100 for the rest.

-30-40 mm/s perimeter speeds.

-150 micron layer height. (I had trouble with 100 microns. It causes over extrusion issues which I plan to revisit sometime but have not yet resolved.)

-Use an active cooling fan (Active Cooling Fan Duct v2 for Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC by thruit00 - Thingiverse 1) This solved Marvin’s ‘flat butt’ issue almost by itself.

Also, make sure your door is closed and the top cover is on.