How does your layer cooling look? My bet would be that the layers aren’t sufficiently cooling before you deposit a new one and so you’re getting a sort of twisted effect. The best way to fix this is to have a fan cooling the layers!
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The speed is too lower to de the bridge
you either need to slow down priting on the hook layers or turn on your fans… also, try with 220°C…
Can you post a photo? Sounds like the abs doesn’t have time to cool and gets squished around in the end. do you have an extruded fan?
Haven’t been using Slic3r for a while, but what is your minimal layer time, if there is an option like this? You need to give the ABS some time to cool down.
I have a very simple a quick solution when it comes to small cross section of printing. my YouTube videos show a bit. georgeroblesjr is my user. Add a skirt one or two loops thick. Set the number to 9999. When slic3d, it will only make the skirt as tall as the print. It allows the materials to cool down a bit. Another tip is add a square tower of sorts taller then your print off to the side. And when its just printing the tower, you can just cancel print. This is useful when trying to minimize how much material you use, also, it the objects are further apart you add more time to print, but add cooling time to increase quality. A full size skirt add benefits of keeping your part in en enclosed area so to speak. Depends more on the print. Here is the clips I did for the Marvin’s. - YouTube - YouTube If you want to know my slic3r configs, go to my WordPress blog where I post them. Not all are there. My fastest print speeds I will post soon. https://georgeroblesjr.wordpress.com But its quite successful in helping many just to get started. And look at you extrusion multipier and diameter. Pla is best at about 1.0 while abs can vary a bit from 1.0- 0.9 and I use 0.95 for my own abs. Filament diameter has a roll in this as well as setting you nozzle diameter. Take a few points of measurements and get the average size, punch that into the filament diameter. For temps, varys in manufacturing company of filament. I use China stuff, (Geeetechs) and PLA is at 65°c for bed, 205°c for nozzle. ABS I run the bed anywhere from 65°c to 95°c usually ( 85-95° is what I run most of the time.) And for the nozzle, I run 220-230°c. Mostly 220 is good for me. I use a watered down Elmer’s glue all, washable disappearing purple glue stick, abs glue/slurry for adhesion depending of how big or small a part.
Hi, thank you for your answer. I don’t have a fan, so I will try using 220°C and slow down printing. Do you thing I should slow any specific speed on slic3r or slow the speed on pronterface when it starts printing the hook?
Hi, thank you for your answer. I guess time to cool the abs is my problem. I don’t have a fan on my printer. I will try lower the speed and the extruder temperature
I should add. I don’t have a fan either. I do redirect air cooling the MK8 but, doesn’t really work
Hi, thank you very much for your answer. I really like the idea to use skirts or a tower to cool the layers, I will try doing that. Also, I will try use the bed with 95°c and extruder with 220°c. You got a really good quality for Marvin. Congratulations!
Actually that was me. And thanks.
wopw that’s nice information man!, thanks for sharing… BTW do you know how to tdo the same trick in Cura? i’ve tried to do that kind of wall when printing also ABS… to help preserve the heat in the part but also to let the small parts to cool down a bit.
let me know!
thanks!
hummmm i do not use Slic3r too much anymore, but i would say… maybe slow dowm the “Small perimeters:” parameter.
This is where the tower trick will work better for you. I know there is an option, have to look, but I think you have to put into expert mode first. Buy for now, just draw a tower taller then part, 15x15 mm and give it a go. Should show improvement
@hugoplm a simple trick is also to print two Marvin separated by a distance. It will give the time for the first Marvin’s layer to cool while it’s printing the same layer on second Marvin 
I have been experimenting with Marvin last year and learned a few things:
- the smaller the object the more important it is to have proper cooling
- also very important is to set the right filament diameter, small flowrate errors can ruin the print at such a smale scale
- use Tantillus calculator to calculate the right extrusion width and height, I couldn’t dream of such results before using it
http://www.deltarap.org/printing-small-objects-with-a-bowden-extruder/
I also don’t have a fan in the printer but beside it:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,388684,391190#msg-391190