Lost the tools that come with the Ultimaker, what to do?

Ivar · 2015-04-15T15:14:19.000Z

Ultimaker is from the Netherlands, not UK.

dwardio · 2015-04-15T15:15:12.000Z

Yep-- they’re metric, not SAE. Most of them are 1.5mm & 2mm, with the really tiny ones at 1mm. If your local big-box hardware store doesn’t have a set with the smaller sizes, check a local RC hobby shop or (much cheaper): http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00I5TH074

Cheers, Dennis

Chayak · 2015-04-15T15:17:20.000Z

Ultimaker along with most 3d printer manufacturers use metric with printers so you’ve likely bought imperial sizes.

Bobby_Forster · 2015-04-15T15:17:46.000Z

I think it is very likely that you purchased SAE Allen wrenches rather than metric Allen wrenches. If you get the metric ones you should have no more problems. Please let me know if you have anymore questions

Arnoldas · 2015-04-15T15:30:56.000Z

Wow guys, thanks for such great response! we actually bought them in Amsterdam so its pretty silly that they don’t have something fitting. The one I have here seems to fit well, but its like a tiny bit too loose… I am afraid that the part itself might be worn out or something

Arnoldas · 2015-04-15T15:32:58.000Z

Here’s how it looks. It’s not really a screw actually… It’s just this spot that is very difficult to reach

20150415_172338.jpg4128×2322 3.02 MB

Arnoldas · 2015-04-15T15:34:00.000Z

Thanks for the tip, unfortunately, its not the case. See picture above, it’s for a different thingie.

Arnoldas · 2015-04-15T15:36:08.000Z

haha! That’s a good idea for finding the tools! Sadly, it has been lost for a while now I don’t think they are anywhere near the printer

Arnoldas · 2015-04-15T15:37:10.000Z

It’s Ultimaker 2, sorry for not specifying!

bg3d · 2015-04-15T15:37:26.000Z

I believe they are all metric Hex keys. I found them at a local ace hardware. Also they asked me if the tiny one was for my guitar so I’m assuming they are standard for that as well. Maybe check out a guitar center or something similar.

StephanG · 2015-04-15T15:42:43.000Z

Thats, 1,5 mm hex. But you can remove the Hotend Isolator (the part with the holes) and then screw the bolt out of the hole. For reassembly screw the bolt in your heater block (it hold the temp sensor and heater). Then screw the hotend isolator (see above) on the heater block. The aluminium plate on the photo has no thread for the bolt, so you stick the heater block with the bolt through this tiny hole.

SandySprings3D · 2015-04-15T15:43:40.000Z

For Ultimaker1 they included a 2mm hex screwdriver for the many hexagon socket screws. Mine was a Wera model #118068 (05118068003). Most cheap sets of METRIC hex key sets should include a 2mm wrench that would work. Ensure you get the metric set and not the SAE set.

They also provided a 1.5mm hex L-shaped key for the set screws of the z-axis lead screw. Hope it helps!

StephanG · 2015-04-15T15:47:54.000Z

Assembly Manual:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/raw/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20\_english.pdf

Dirk_14 · 2015-04-15T16:31:10.000Z

I don’t know were you live but you will need a set of metric allen keys, not the Imperial ones that are standard in US for example.

Jamburger · 2015-04-15T16:56:22.000Z

I highly recommend picking up a metric set like this one (amazon link). You may even want to go with one Metric set and one SAE (amazon link). Sometimes I find that the SAE ones actually work a little better for some of the smaller metric sizes on the UM2; can’t explain why, though.

mutrax · 2015-04-15T16:57:42.000Z

Most of the nuts and bolds that are bought by machinebuilders etc… come from companies that buy their products in low cost countries. They do meet the requirements of 8.8 or 12.9 bolts. But quality is evryting but… eccentricity, and damaging of the inner hex is very easy (even within torque specs) , witch prevents good tightening. So good chance is that your inner hexes are damaged. For my UM2 I encountered this a lot! BTW, every techician should have a pair of these! http://www.pbswisstools.com/nl/quality-hand-tools-qht/color-code/rainbow/inbussleutels.html

Simon_28 · 2015-04-15T17:28:08.000Z

The vast majority of the screws on the UM2 (and the UMO) are 2mm hex. A ball-headed hex driver is useful for working on some of the harder-to-reach screws, especially the set screws in the pulleys.

On the UM2, you’ll need a 1.5mm hex driver for the set screw on the feeder knurled sleeve and the 14mm set screw that holds the temp sensor and heater into the nozzle (the one indicated in the followup picture). A 2.5mm hex driver is needed for the z-stage bearings under the cover in the back of the print table.

For people looking for something a bit better than the Allen keys that come with the machine, fbrc8.com (my company) sells a complete toolkit of the same high-quality tools that we use in assembling the UM2. You can find it on our website.

gr5org · 2015-04-16T03:37:02.000Z

They are 2mm allen wrenches. I strongly recommend you get a 2mm hex wrench in a screwdriver package (not those L shaped ones although it’s okay to get one of those also). That covers 99% of the screws on the machine. There is a single screw in the heater block that is 1.5mm and the fans may or may not have phillips head screws.

Arnoldas · 2015-04-17T11:46:41.000Z

Hey guys,

We’ve tried everything! Thanks for all the help! We even tried soldering the tool to make it little bigger and then gradually reduce the size of it, but it was still either too big to fit or simply spinning inside.

We called the Ultimaker and they’ll send us the original tools, but I don’t think that will help. We’ll see if can work it our over e-mail with them as well. It seems like the only thing we can do now is change the whole nozzle

gr5org · 2015-04-19T01:48:34.000Z

Just take vice grips and squeeze the hell out of that little screw and rotate it out.