About to purchase a FlashForge 2016 model. As this was released a year ago, checking to see if I should wait a bit for an updated model. Thanks!
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Apr '17last reply
Apr '17- 17
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not that I know of, the 2016 is great
Save money and order the QIDI.
How comparable is it to the flashforge? Well, I have 4 flashforges and use everything from qidi control boards to nozzles to almost everything else when I need replacement parts! speaking of replacement parts, order a spare thermister and nozzles when you order, that’s the most common part I replace in my farm.
Have you been in my house? Sounds like me. FFCP’s and QIDI’s! eBay QIDI for bargans on parts. Complete extruder setup $85, from FF $235 or so for the same thing.
I second going with the QIDI Tech-1. The FFCP is a great machine also so you won’t get hurt but just pay a little more.
I am a dealer for Flashforge in Canada and there are no plans to release a newer version of the Creator Pro this year. There is a new Guider, Inventor and DLP printer though.
Haha!! In fact I just upgrades my 4 to microswiss all metal hotends and WMD extruder mounts which make leveling the extruder a dream
Thanks for all the feedback. This is my first desktop printer (although not new to industrial 3D printing and workflow). I am literally going in circles trying to pick a printer, my budget is $3K and the more I research the more printers drop on my radar! And cheaper too!
Looking for a sub $3K printer with the most flexibility in material options. Need dual extrusion (or single nozzle multi material). Mostly ABS prints. Build volume at least 9inches in some direction as will be making mostly figurines. Although a larger build volume is something very welcomed.
I don’t mind assembling a kit. However prefer to be spending most my time on 3D modeling than printer calibration / maintenance.
I have looked at the printers below and interestingly ended up at FFCP (and Qidi) but it lacks print volume and was concerned it hasn’t been updated in a year compared to other models. But I’m totally noob here and not sure if this is even a real concern.
I am also in the USA
- Rostock Max v3 : liked the print volume, but no enclosure, hard to calibrate and no dual extrusion out of the box. Too much DIY
- Ultimaker 3 : slightly above budget and I feel I’m not getting best value for money.
- BCN3D Sigma R17 : love those independent dual extruders, but long lead time to order. community not so present in USA
- FlashForge CP: although cheaper than the rest, wins on all points except build volume. Slightly too small but can live with it as a first printer
- Taz6 , Prusa , Formbot : not enclosed and no dual extrusion …
Did I miss anything? Thanks for your help!
You may want to make sure that the printer can use filaments other than what the manufacturer sells. Doesn’t apply to all. When you are locked into their filaments it can get expensive.
Trying to get the nozzles to be on the same exact level is ridiculous PAIN after a while. The nozzles end up not being the same exact level.
Out of the box? Great. After having hundreds of problems and 3 years later? No way. All 3 of our Flashforges are just running with one nozzle attached.
You could build an Folgertech FT5 with an aluminum upgrade kit (http://713maker.com/ft5.html 1)
Thanks for that! The Guider looks interesting and really liking the larger build volume. Does it come in dual extruder option?
Hi @c_geometry while I don’t necessarily agree with @Toadums that nozzle levelling is difficult on the FF Pro (I’ve done it twice so far and had no problems at all), I’ll admit I don’t use it for dual printing as such. I’ve attempted dual colour prints on the FF but there’s just too much ooze from the idle nozzle so I pretty much just use it as a single headed machine, but it’s still useful to have Black ABS loaded and always ready to go on one of the nozzles.
If dual-printing is a must, then I’d look at printers that have a solution to the ooze, like the R17 or the UM3. I’d also think long and hard about how important dual colour actually is. I’ve only had one customer ask for dual colour, and that was in two separate vertical layers (so I did it on the Prusa with a colour change). What I’d really like from dual printing is good soluble support printing as removing supports is a complete PITA (and usually leaves nasty surfaces) so if you’re looking at dual printing, again I’d say look at their ability with PVA, which of course is also the R17 and the UM3…
If you’ve only done it twice, I can see why you don’t agree.
The Guider is a single extruder printer with no heated bed (no dual option either), however, it has auto-leveling and the bed detaches easily from the framework. The new Guider 2 is quite impressive and has a build volume of 11" x10" x12" (280mmx250mmx300mm). I should mention it is not a machine for printing ABS, it will do PETG nicely though. The picture I’ve attached is a rendering of the new model.
The Guider runs on proprietary firmware and has a touch screen LCD interface. It will only reach an extruder temperature of 255°C though.
I see that a lot of people have issues with extruders needing a equidistant calibration on their Creator Pro’s; I would suggest buying your Creator Pro from a local dealer. Part of our PDI process is to correct that right out of the box before a customer receives the product, Flashforge knows this and is trying to ensure they are done properly from factory. If you end up buying a Creator Pro and have that issue, you can easily adjust this with a feeler gauge and loosening the set screw at the reverse side of the aluminum mounting block. Do this adjustment once then every-time you remove or replace a nozzle and PTFE tube, you won’t need to worry about it again. This is our experience with that model, I suppose every where is different.
Good luck with your purchase!
It just takes some practice, like a lot of stuff with printing! There are jigs you can make that are a big help in getting each nozzle assembly at the same height when mounting into the cooling bar. At that point any very small difference is probably an issue with the gantry and the cooling bar can be shimmed slightly.
Screw the gig and level using a bed with a glass plate and a piece of paper. Then move the print head gently with a rod or I use a pick
BNC SIGMA or something of a very simular name. Large print volume and has two print heads that work independently for duel extrusion prints… sounds perfect for what you want. It is pretty pricy though!