They are prusa I3 clones from China. I say original simply as they are not the mk 2 version
Got it! I think the suggestion above is a good starting point. Check all connections are good. Look for wire breaks, may be hard to find. Another thing that is possible is solder joints failing but these will be hard to see without a large magnifying glass.
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The first time I had issues I actually replaced all the wiring with my own primary wire. I also bumped up all the gauges, so the 18 gauge wires are now 16 etc. The board itself actually doesn’t have wires directly soldered to it, it’s a mix of clip on connectors and screw terminals for the higher amp feeds. Thanks again btw guys for all the suggestions so far!
jfield
December 2, 2016, 5:22pm
8
Could it possibly be your 120v supply power is having fluctuations or brownouts. I assume all the printers are running off the same line if they are on the same table. Brownouts and spikes can cause electronics to do strange things. Also could heat around the control boards be a problem? When I first started printing with my printer, I would get some random shifts, and assumed it was my z stepper overheating and missing steps. I removed the cover over the control board, and haven’t had a skip since. Recently I hooked a Raspberry PI with a t/c and recorded the temperature around the board. With the cover on it was running at least 5C hotter around the board.
3 Likes
RCole
December 2, 2016, 5:30pm
9
Background info - or skip to questions at the bottom.
I had similar problems with 2 Ultimaker 2+ machines and one Lulzbot Taz 5. Only in the Z direction. At about 1cm in height, it would move the head down into the print instead of up. After a couple of layers, it would return to where it should be - except the print was broken loose and the damage was already done - I have some spectacular fails.
I spent the time to search through the gcode and found commands in the gcode to move the Z axis in the wrong direction.
When I switched off of using slic3r to using Cura, the problem went away.
So… Have you updated any software or firmware recently? What slicer are you using? Have you tried others? Can you backtrack and use older versions (if you did an update)?
2 Likes
Thanks for the reply!
As far as the motherboards overheating possibly, if that was the case then I don’t think the layers would re-align the way they do. I’ve had steps skip in the past but it always continues the print mis-aligned, it doesn’t go back to being perfectly aligned. Which leaves me to believe that it’s not the motors skipping, as for them to coincidentally be skipping out and perfectly back in again just doesn’t sound possible lol.
I’ll give it a check though, same with the faulty wiring mentioned as a possibility earlier, this whole issue just has me so baffled as it doesn’t clearly point to any one fault.
Thanks RCole! this does sound very much so like the issue I’m having, just in a different direction. I use mainly Repetier, using the Slicer slicing settings for my gcode. I do use Cura as well, as sometimes I was having issues with the outcome of slicer made gcodes (Infill not combining with walls properly, gaps between perimeters, 100% infill was never 100%, more like 40%) when I had these issues I switched to cura for a bit and after the next update the problems went away.
Only thing I have to say though, is if the issue was in the slicer would it not affect my now only good printer too? Or if not, then would that leave it to be an issue with Both the slicing software and the printer.
Very glad to hear that I’m not the only one with these exact symptoms, especially so that you too have gone through similar means of fixing it! I too have had some very unique results from failed prints that I normally wouldn’t expect otherwise.
Thanks again for the response!
Solder joints for the connectors.
Ah ok so you mean on the boards directly themselves. I’ll have to check and see if this is the case. Would this be something that another issue could cause to go bad? (high voltage/current etc.) or just something that would be a defect sent straight from the factory itself?
RCole
December 3, 2016, 12:46pm
15
Do you live in an area with a high humidity? Poor soldering practices (I could go on for many paragraphs on what that could be - I used to teach soldering including the physics behind it), humidity and vibration can combine to cause poor connection and/or intermittent issues. @wirlybird may have hit on something here.
Sometimes (most times) reflowing the solder will fix these problems.Make sure to clean up any flux on the board afterwards. Flux + humidity = conductive path (sometimes).
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I had suspected humidity as a possible cause for a while actually. The printers are out in my garage, and for most of the summer it was quite humid (I was constantly battling moisture in my filaments). If this were the cause, what should I look for to diagnose it? Also I have to admit, I ran out of my good solder and the new stuff can be quite nasty… leaving a lot of flux and residual gunk on the joints and around them
RCole
December 4, 2016, 4:54am
17
You might have to be careful about that. Having two different fluxes can cause corrosion issues. Especially when exposed to humidity. Make sure you clean off any left-over flux.
For previous flux/humidity issues, look for white powder/streaks on the board and especially around soldered points. Old solder that is corroding will be very dull grey. New solder should be shiny. If you see dark lines around where the solder meets metal, it is either left over flux (will be easily removed) or galvanic corrosion - the humidity got between the solder and the metal - can be caused by poor soldering with vibration opening a path for the moisture. Especially check where connectors join boards - these often have vibration issues.
Well, that’s some of what to look for anyway. I hope you get your problems sorted out.
2 Likes
Rover31
December 9, 2016, 11:08pm
18
I am having I think the same issue.
My extruder started stuttering and acting clogged. Check volt settings all good there. New nozzle didn’t do anything. New extruder motor, hot end the entire thing just to start fresh. Still nope. So today I swap the cables from the X to the extruder and eureka! it worked… only for just a few moments then then stopped. So I swap the stepper driver board and it worked… once again for just a moment. In fact I noticed that all of the steppers are not always working. very intermittent. If I turn the machine off and let it sit I come back and test it may or may not work. Sometimes it will work great all axis’s will move sadly, mostly not.
So perhaps a new motherboard? Or?
Thanks for letting me jump on board!
I have a CTC 4880 unit for reference.
1 Like
Idem.
Did you find a solution ?
I personally have not, not sure about rover. I do have a new motherboard on the way though so if when I replace it all symptoms go away then I’ll assume it was indeed the motherboard.
Rover31
December 12, 2016, 1:49pm
21
No I have not. I did try a new cable set with no effect. New stepper drivers are on the way and will try those out if that does not work new board then.
What board did you order? There are several different ones to choose from. I am leaning to a GT2560.
Thanks for keeping this thread going!
Rover31
December 12, 2016, 1:50pm
23
still working on it! What motherboard did you order?
Rover31
December 12, 2016, 1:51pm
24
I did try for a response and zero replies
