This particular print used the Getting Started .ini file, which means the 0.1984mm layer height you mentioned. I will check on the belt tension - is there a good way to determine the right firmness?
That’s probably the most frustrating part of my experience thus far - I got an assembled printrbot. It might have gotten mishandled during shipping possibly. The part that holds the extruder came not parallel to the print bed. When I tried making my first print the print head dug into parts of the frame. After that, I read in other places that the bent issue is a no-go so I proceeded to bend the sheet metal to make it close to parallel as possible. In the process of doing so, I’m not sure if I might have messed something else up…
That was my initial guess as well. I’m not sure if this is significant but I can notice that the z axis acme screw wobbles a little at the top when it runs. The base of the screw where it meets the coupler is actually quite snug. I assumed that the top of the screw wobbling would be counteracted with the guide shafts - is there a way to determine that the wobbling on mine is not normal?
Hi Matt, even you have completed Printrbot (not a kit), check the original online documentation of manufacturer: i.tvit.cz/1XNxwok 19. It is VERY handy if you need anything to change or justify. Clips on belts are also there. I only use two (one more) on both ends to secure belt. Some say the bigger tension the better, but too much can lead to structural deformations or tearing the belts. (In the worst case GT2 belt is quite cheap and universal accross more 3D printers.)
Banding, as it is normally termed in additive manufacturing, is always due to the Z axis. This is mostly identifiable by the “waviness” in the part, which is often representative of the pitch of your Z-Screw. The problem can be very easily remedied be re-aligning the Z-Screw with the NEMA motor.
The Easiest method is to loosen the set screws on the flex coupling and apply some pressure to the top of the ACME screw in order to set the coupling. If the screw comes into contact with the output shaft of the NEMA motor then separate slightly in order to allow the backlash to be absorbed by the coupling. After all is said and done you should have no troubles printing at even .1mm resolution.
Also a tell tell sign of banding caused specifically by the Z axis is that regardless of resolution the banding will be the same since it is caused by a misalignment of your Z-Screw. Please let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.
