Hi all,
After about two months of my CTC printer printing really nicely, I started to get prints that were either not sticking, warping or both. I finally realized my stock aluminum built plate on my CTC printer is not flat. It has a dip in the middle that has made my printing …um…challenging. That has made me considered replacing my build bed.
To avoid confusion, I define Build plate as the main build bed, in my case the aluminum plate that the heating sheet attaches too. I define build surface as what sits on top of the bed (tape, buildtak, etc). Just so I am properly managing my expectations, are build plates considered ‘consumable items’? I sure hope not.
Ideally, I am looking for a LONG term solution with little to no fuss.
Here is my top list for build plates:
- Maghold Build Plate (http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestashop/index.php?id_product=5&controller=product) : Just a build plate, but looks pretty sturdy and less likely to warp.
- GeckoTec : This has a lot of people raving about how great it works. For $85 I get a magnetic build plate and the geckotec plate for pla/abs. My concern is longevity of the build surface.
- Glass : I really rather not deal with glass because of the glue/tape/hairspray,etc. I could be swayed if long term cost would be lower than the other options.
Here are my list of build surface options:
- BuildTak : I have tried it, not bad. It does eventually wear out and not exactly cheap. So will mostly likely discontinue use.
- GeckoTec : as above, sounds like a great option, but I am concerned about its longevity.
- Zebra/Fleks : same as GeckoTec
- Printbite : This sounds incredible, but I don’t really know where to get it. again, not sure of the price or longevity.
- PEI : I have a sheet (.003" 12x12), but have not been able to test it. I realize this is also a consumable, but any thoughts on how it will last in relation to the other options? Not super excited about having to use 3M thermal tape that isn’t cheap either.
At this point I am leaning toward MagHold and one of the build surface options. Any thoughts on what combination would give the results with long lasting use. I don’t mind spending the money for a long lasting solution.
I am looking forward to the responses.
SOC3D
2
I find Glass with hairspray to work the best and cheapest for ABS/PLA and SuperGlue/Glass for PolyCarb and nylon. I replace my borosilicate glass when it shears off with prints and my non-borosilicate when it shatters. I also use Lexan/Makrolon and painters tape when needed.
Build surfaces seem to be like religions. Different people swear by different build surfaces and recommend them to everyone. If they are all correct and their build surface is the best then the world needs to implode. Find what you like and what you think will last or be cheaper and use it.
Keep in mind that the amount of print time you have, the materials you use and the print settings you use will have an affect on the life of the build surface so if someone is using more of a different material or even a different brand you may get drastically different results and life out of the same build surface.
If you are using thermal tape or adhesive look at the value (Watts per Meter Kelvin?) and compare it to something like Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste which might be better and cheaper. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d\_429.html
D3DI
3
Hi Adrianq123,
Great topic you have started here. I also have a few CTC printers and got excellent results straight out of the box. After a few dozen prints the red tape started peeling off and needed replacing, I tried using a cheap masking tape which works for a while but is now bubbling off from underneath and has gone ripply and miss-shapen, I think like most things you get what you pay for.
The CTC printers I have are set to 110C build plate from the factory and I cannot see a control anywhere to turn this temperature down, I think I need a firmware upgrade. I can easily imagine why the plate will warp with constant heating and cooling cycles. One thing I am really not keen on either is how the plate moves when pulling off builds, the springs to level the bed work well but do not actually ‘fix’ the plate…sometimes the force required to remove prints seems like it might damage the machine. DO not get me wrong though I am delighted with my CTC printers, for the price, mostly built and calibrated out of the box - fantastic.
I have also used a lot of glass plates with my modified Rostock deltas, these work very well with ABS and PLA but I have found that to my surprise occasionally a chunk of glass will break off along with the print (glass impregnated additive manufacturing anyone?). With ABS I use a heated glass bed and a tiny bit of hairspray, the print sticks very well, the only way I can get it off is to allow the bed to cool down, when cool enough it pops off. I guess the thermal shock/constant cycling is not helpful. The glass plates do not cost very much money but obviously need to be handled carefully.
I habe not replaced the aluminum print bed yet, but I can recommend FR4 fibreglass plates as a print surface. Works well with PLA, ABS and PETG.
D3DI
5
I like the sound of FR4 plates, what thickness are you using? 1.6mm?
I swear by glass build plate with hairspray. Every material I have used sticks and thru out all the build plate it’s flat as a pancake as long as you level.it right.
I use this plate for my ctc, its a spezial plate for the Replicator 2 with higher adhesion: http://www.3dprinterstore24.de/Dauerdruckplatten/Dauerdruckplatten-weiss-1mm/Dauerdruckplatte-weiss-1mm-230x150mm-fuer-z-B-Duplicator-SPEZIAL::132.html PLA and ABS stick perfect but for Nylon i need to use a glue stick. I am working with this plate for around a year and I think it will even last longer. The Name “Dauerdruckplatte” means “long lasting printing plate/surface”
I usw 1mm FR4, but 1.6 would probably be better. For tiny prints I either add little feet to the print or glue stick mixed with alcohol.
I took the glass plate out of an old printer/scanner ,cut it to the slightly bigger size i wanted with a glass cutter.
used 4 glue dots to stick it to the plate for position then 4 clips to stop it slipping squirt of hairspray and job done
easy cheap and works really well
