Despite the sales talk a Creatbot DX is definatly not ready out of the box. I dont know if it is a slack company or someone is just always at smoko. Thse steps need to be done ASAP or you are just wasting your time. Like the two weeks I have just wasted before writing this. I want to thank Mark Langlais who quite literally lives on the other side of the world to me who helped me get mine printing effectivly.
Sales Jargon
It is not a Creatbot printer, it is a RepRap. Which is good and bad. The good part is that you can adjust it as such.
Nightrams defaults (aka what it should be from factory):
Extruder 607.13 s/mm (factory is 650 s/mm)
X/Y leave as is (can be tweeked if required, mine was only 0.3mm out over 100mm)
Z 808.00 s/mm (factory is 800)
X Acceleration MAX 1000mm/s (factory is 9000mm/s)
Y Acceleration MAX 1000mm/s (factory is 9000mm/s)
Acceleration 800
Maximum X/Y Jerk 10.00 mm/s
Maximum Z Jerk 20.00 mm/s
Basic Extrusion calibrate and so forth
Start at the extruder then work your way around. I disconnected the hose at the top of the bowden, fed in some filament and chopped it off exactly 120mm from the bottom. Becasue lets face it you wont re-use it.
Keeping the link above in mind it is a similar process to do X/Y/Z
How do I stop the acceleration greater than a jet plane?
Someone in the company thought it would be a good ide to have the accelerations maxed out, Quite literally faster than a supersonic jet plane. To fix this you need a program called matter control. It is one of the few programs that can adjust the firmware in the printer without destroying it.
You probably have realised it by now that the Creatware is just a sucky version of Cura.even then it is second best to Simplify3D. You have saved a few pennies on the printer so I urge you to buy the software. Here is a basic FFF file for the Creatbot DX03. With the settings within I have been able to reliably get down to 0.04mm successfully. Just lower the speed to 1800mm/m.
@Nightram Thank you for the insight. I have just ordered the dual-extruder version of the DX.
You can be cynical about these Chinese products being “knock-offs” to make easy money for the manufacturer. OK the mechanics are inspired from Ultimaker and the hotends from E3D but there does seem to be some design thought put into these machines e.g.:
They could have gone with a basic gear pair on the extruder but elected to use a stepper with integrated gearbox.
The hot-ends are capable of achieving temperatures of 400C and use a Type K Thermocouple for sensing temperature.
The printer has an auto-shut down feature.
The printer has a resume after power failure feature.
The first two on this list are not typical of a company that wants to maximise profit. They bring benefit to the user at higher cost.
The last two on the list are somewhat unusual. I know of printers that support shut down of the power supply but the inactivity timeout method is something I have not seen commonly offered. The resume after power failure feature hints that the power supply has sufficient spare capacity to perform the required actions at power fail time.
I have been using a kit-built Mendel90 for the last 2+ years and this will be my first complete printer purchase. I am particularly interested to hear how people are finding this brand in day-to-day usage.
Cheers mate. Thanks heaps. I have been on Google and looking for some samples. You don’t the the nightram. Settings file do you? I run simplify3D and have a few profiles setup but just don’t seem to get consistent top quality prints. Have you ever printed any of the 3dlabprints RC planes? Ps my email address is pocketmojo@bigpond.com
