How to put glass bed on Flashforge Creator Pro?

cobnut · 2017-06-26T09:38:14.000Z

Hi @Johnnyo1012 I fitted a glass bed to my Pro after only a couple of weeks as I was unhappy with the blue “mat” that comes with the machine. I removed the mat and put the glass directly onto the build platform. I tried using corner brackets to hold it in place but they didn’t work well for me so I’ve always just used Kapton tape at the edges, it sounds like a fudge fix but it holds the glass really well and doesn’t get in the way. A while after fitting the glass I was having problems with adhesion so fitted a PEI sheet to the glass and it’s been that way ever since.

Don’t forget you’ll need a shim under your z-stop to account for the extra thickness of the glass.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T11:32:01.000Z

@cobnut what if the build platform is slightly warped? I am trying to level the nozzles in the center of the bed and once I get it perfect in the center I go to level the sides. After I level the sides I go back to the center and the nozzles hit the bed. That is why I think it is warped. If I put glass directly on top of it won’t it affect the glass? Also where did you buy your glass? Thanks.

wirlybird · 2017-06-26T11:47:52.000Z

First on leveling. Only level with the nozzle directly over the leveling screws the rest will follow and as you have found you will chase it forever.

The gantry can be slightly lower when in the middle of the plate making the nozzle slightly lower. This is from the weight of it and is normal.

Using glass can help to account for any irregularities in the build platform as long as it is not super thin glass.

cobnut · 2017-06-26T11:49:18.000Z

Hi @Johnnyo1012 are you adjusting more than one screw at once? I found when I first got my Pro that you need to adjust at least two of the screws at once when levelling the bed, if you turn just one it tends overly adjust the other points. When levelling, if I need to be adjusting the front screw I’ll usually adjust the two back screws by half a turn to every full turn of the front screw and so on. Sometimes I go through the levelling process more than once.

I think it’s unlikely that the bed itself is physically (and permanently) warped, it’s more likely just a levelling issue. If it is warped you really need to replace it.

My glass actually came with the printer when I bought it, it was a bundled package.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T11:58:45.000Z

Where do I get glass for it? Yes, I am using more than 1 screw.

wirlybird · 2017-06-26T12:08:06.000Z

Amazon, mcmaster carr are a couple places.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T12:11:14.000Z

I couldn’t find anything on amazon could you?

twiesner · 2017-06-26T14:09:17.000Z

I usually buy my glass plates from this PrintinZ. This one should fit the creator pro: http://www.printinz.com/borosilicate-glass-3d-printer-bed-3-3mm-x-152mm-x-228mm/

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T16:29:19.000Z

What is a good thickness for a glass bed?

twiesner · 2017-06-26T16:38:48.000Z

Probably around 3-5 mm. Type of glass will make a difference though. If you are only going to print PLA or other materials that won’t require a bed then any glass should do. Otherwise most tempered glass will work up to 80C. Anything higher than 80C for a heated bed I would recommend going with Borosilicate.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T16:41:16.000Z

We are going to print ABS, PLA and other exotics.

Would a 9" x 6" work from this link? What thickness?

mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

Thanks.

SOC3D · 2017-06-26T17:32:21.000Z

The zero maintenance way:

Step One: Print a Shim

FlashForge/PowerSpec glass-bed z-axis shim by johngiachero - Thingiverse (or any other z-axis shim, we have our own for internal use)

Step Two: Clip the glass on with anything

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/WBG2CopgmcCQNE1I87e3QLrVw10XImMo62hhj2uX7cX

Step Three: After about a dozen prints we can remove the clips as the bed gets adhered with PVA/Aquanet.

Swapping the glass every month or two is just using a paint scraper to pull off the glass and then repeating steps 2 & 3

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T17:59:55.000Z

Should we get a 3"/16" thick plate or a 1"/8" thick plate?

Will these parts work for the 3"/16"- Flashforge Dreamer Glass Bed Upgrade Parts 1\8" or 3mm by -Josh- - Thingiverse

Will these parts work for the 1"/8"- Flashforge Glass Bed Corner Bracket by Makersome - Thingiverse

Please let me know. Thanks.

twiesner · 2017-06-26T18:27:22.000Z

The 1/8" or 3/16" should work. You will need to make or find a shim and clips for your printer. I use these clips on my bed: 3/16" Glass Bed Clip for Flash Forge by blairmi2 - Thingiverse.

A shim should be as high as your glass plate and attached to the back so it can hit the z endstop.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T18:36:24.000Z

Do I have to have wing nuts or can I use the nuts that come with the printer?

twiesner · 2017-06-26T18:43:32.000Z

Your choice. Doesn’t matter as long as it is the correct sized nut. I am assuming it is a metric screw so probably a m3 style is needed.

Johnnyo1012 · 2017-06-26T18:47:25.000Z

Can’t I print the corners from your link and use the bolts and nuts that already hold down the print bed?

wirlybird · 2017-06-26T18:51:56.000Z

I went with the thicker glass. Forget exactly how thick but maybe the 1/4". I use a shim similar to that one.

wirlybird · 2017-06-26T18:55:10.000Z

You may want to just start out by taping the glass to the bed. I used blue painters tape for a while because I got frustrated with "corners’ that didn’t work well. Main thing is simply for the glass to not move during printing. Some people use those bulldog clips but just make sure to position them so the nozzles won’t hit them!

twiesner · 2017-06-26T18:55:12.000Z

You should be able to use the extra nuts but is there one for each corner? The link I provided slips over the bed screw from underneath but needs some sort of nut to hold it in place.