Hi.
I’m trying to print this model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:362357
But I have no success, the print fails right on the first layer. The thing is that the first layer print is being made by very thin lines. I’ve tried moving the Z axis closer and further (with Z offset in simplify3d) away from the bed, but every time im some parts no filament comes out, it curls or it just doesn’t stick to the bed.
Here is the best image I could take. Sorry, everything is blue 
If you see the front line (the first printed line) it comes fine and sticks to the bed, but it is thicker. The next lines (the actual object and the skirts) are too thin. Some parts aren’t extruded, some curls and some don’t stick.
I’m printing with heated bed at 50 degrees and extruder at 210 as the filament label says and active cooling. I have a FF Dreamer btw.
Any advise?
Thanks
Lots of detail in the model. I would slow the printer right down for the first layer. Say, 10 - 15mm/s.
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Did you play with S3d first layer thickness? You can increase f.e. to 200% or more.
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Also, try, if not set already, some retraction vertical lift, as first layer can be irregular in height and you do not want your head to destroy islands while fast moving.
As for more general remarks, for such things, you need perfect leveling or increased thickness of first layer. Sometimes, you think you have it done perfectly, but without a glass, you could just have a “not so flat” surface that will never be perfectly leveled. I’m not sure that such tiny details like that dino card (which I downloaded yesterday, what a coincidence!) would realy stick to a Buildtak like surface but I lack the trials, and I’m just assuming 
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You mention ‘active cooling’. Does it mean you are sending air to the nozzle? To be avoided on first layer.
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Hi,
I use an ordinary bond paper now when I level z axis, and that is exactly .10mm thick, and as soon as I feel a little scratch or friction from nozzle I stop turning the nut. Another thing is I use glass build plate with flashforge sticker on it, and a spray of hairspray, one layer will do. I stop using the paper that came with flashforge as basis for aligning build plate, since it is too thick at .2mm . Hope this helps good luck.
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Hi,
Forgot to mention my settings for PLA, temp is 230C Extruder, 60C Bed, no active cooling for first 3d layers, then I turn on my external fan (room fan). Monitor your bed temperature it should not go below 50C when active cooling is on. Good Luck.
Have you printed anything else successfully?
That line that is sticking successfully is called the skirt. It’s sticking because it’s thicker and printed slower. You need to do the same for the settings of the first layer: print at 200% or 300% heigth, 50% (or even 25%) speed, WIDTH TO AUTO, and increase the temperature (5 degrees at a time up to 220). If all this fails it means you are trying to print too thin, increase your layer height.
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Yes, The marvin and another piece. But both with less delicate first layers.
But shouldn’t the printer compensate this .1mm? I mean, if it is supposed to be leveled with its own paper, I assumed the printer would compensate it.
But if you are having better results I will try. Do you have a dreamer too?
Yes, the warped bed may be the problem, I always had this impression that the left side prints are different.
I’ll check it.
jz02182
13
If you have not already leveled your build plate. Scale this way down to about Melvin size. If it prints fine like melvin, I would say you need to level your build plate
Dhin
14
It is always a good idea to level your bed before you print. If you constantly have a spot or area that seems closer or farther away from your head it is a good bet that the bed has a warp in it. Your bed and print head can become out of alignment just by running a print, bumping your printer or looking at it cross eyed, so just get in the habit of leveling.
Level your bed then try a big print that covers most of your build area. You can stop it after the first few layers, you just need to see where the filament is be smashed into the plate and where it isn’t. Try to level it again paying attention to those areas especially when you level and try the print again. It should be pretty obvious quickly if you can level the plate or if it is warped. If it is warped go with a glass bed. Make sure it is the same size as your plate, a thermal glass, and 5mm to 6mm thickness (quarter inch.)
Dhin
15
Three things I would try.
First - Level your bed… and then check that you have properly prepared your build plate. I’m not familiar with the blue pad that you have, but I will assume that it works similarly to blue painters tape. If you are having problems with the first layer sticking try using a thin layer of glue from a regular glue stick that you can pick up almost anywhere (I like the Elmer’s Glue Sticks, but almost any kind will work.) You can also turn the temperature down a step or two (try 45 and 200 for example.)
Second - Level your bed and then try rotating the model about 90 degrees so it is facing the other way. FF build plates can be a bit warped I’ve found, (or at least mine is) and so the the print head is sometime further from the bed in some spots than others.
Three - Level the bed and then print it using a raft and see it that helps…
It really looks to me like it may be leveling issue,your left side looks lower from the way the filament is pulled up… but I wouldn’t discount that the plate is warped. The easiest way to fix a warped bed is to find a good 6x9 quarter inch thermal glass plate and use it for your bed, (don’t forget to install a shim so you don’t crack your glass by driving you print heads into it.)
If all else fails try moving the model’s bottom to just below the bed surface in your slicer program. This really shouldn’t work but who knows, stranger things have happened.
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Thank you. I’ll try that print.
