Hi all, I work for a small engine research company based in Bloomfield, Connecticut, and we just purchased an N2. We’ve been trying to set it up, but can’t seem to get satisfactory print quality. We’re printing with white ABS filament from the Raise3D website. Could anyone help us with print settings? I understand this will be a lot of trial and error, but I am looking for baseline settings that have worked for others.
Thanks!
Hello,
I have been using the N2 for almost a year now and dont really recall any set up problems. IDEAMAKER the proprietary software practically does it all for you once you input the ABS(or PLA, etc) data under the Printer tab, its quite straightforward so dont put yourself under any pressure. You will of course have to download updates for the tablet on the printer as well as Ideamaker itself.
The ideamaker manual is not written in UK or US English but it is understandable and simple, you should not really have to labour much over it, just go with the flow.
Once you have entered ABS as your filament, Ideamaker will automatically set print temps for the nozzle and print bed, ( 240°C and 100°C) but you can adjust either, easiest thru the printer tablet which is a touch pad, just touch the temp setting and it will open a settings window - dont worry you wont break it.
Not sure there are any baseline settings other than what Ideamaker provides and these can always be readily tweaked under Edit when setting up your print profile.
My touchpad was a bit temperamental in that the motors icon shows disabled, if yours does similar, ignore it and carry on.
Hope this helps somewhat?
if you need any further help, feel free, adedapo@eternalenergyresourcesltd.com
Best
Hello Saad202
have you set the bed to nozzle height to 0.25mm? This is critical for Raft printing which I recommend. The instructions are included in the box.
Also ideaMaker is a good slicer for your prints.
Cheers
Michael
The first thing you should do is to precisely level the bed. The bed is leveled at the factory but probably got out of level during shipping and the factory level isn’t super precise to begin with. It takes some time but it’s worth it and you’ll probably want to check it from time to time. Here is the bed leveling procedure:
https://www.raise3d.com/pages/bed-leveling-instruction
The settings I use for ABS are as follows:
Nozzle Temperature: 250
Bed Temperature: 100 - 110
For all the other settings, use the defaults in the “ABS- V2 Hot End” presets.
For the bed adhesive, I’m using WolfBIte on glass. I haven’t used the BuildTak surface but it should work well at the same settings.
The real trick with BuildTak is to set the nozzle distance just right so that it sticks well but not too well.
For PLA, I either use glue stick on glass or a large sheet of industrial masking tape on a peiec of Acrylic.
Nozzle 205-210, Bed 55 - 70.
A few questions to try to help you so that I’m not just taking a wild guess -
I assume this isn’t your first 3D printer, correct?
What do you mean by satisfactory print quality? I only ask because I’ve dealt with a lot of people who are expecting SLA or SLS print quality from a filament printer or people who print with a 100% infill and then don’t understand why their print swelled and doesn’t fit with their other parts.
Can you attach a photo of one of your prints you are unhappy with and what settings you are using? (If it is a proprietary part, can you share a closeup photo, so we can’t tell what the part is). If you are using the default settings, which setting are you using?
Are you printing with or without a raft?
I print with Hatchbox, Paramount, and many other popular brands of ABS, PETg and PLA filament and don’t have any real issues with the default settings in Ideamaker. However, I have never tried Ideamaker’s ABS since there are many other cheaper alternatives that work just as well. For large ABS prints, I do have to increase the bed and hot end temperatures to reduce the likelihood of the part cooling too quickly and cracking.
Make sure you have selected V2 version for both your printer and for the ABS, this is very important!
Make sure you are you have your LEFT bottom fan cover ON always, the right fan cover could be off as it is controlled by the idealMaker ABS profile which should say 0% fan for ABS, please note this is for SINGLE EXTRUDER PRINTERS ONLY!
If you have a Double Extruder printer then You MUST HAVE THE FAN COVER ON BOTH SIDES, as the right fan is always on regardless of what the idealMaker profile says.
The steps above are very important!
1 Like
Stanos
7
I haven’t used their white before but from my own experience white is always the toughest to get right. The amount of pigment to make white plastic drastically changes the properties of the plastic. For starters what settings are you currently using. As a shot in the dark I would start with 245 nozzle and 110 bed and see what you get there. Especially with the white I would using a raft. Also, Raise3D has a very active user base in their community forums http://forum.raise3d.com with lots of tips about the N2
Mayco
8
Hi. I’ve been using the Raise3D N2 Plus for a while now. I recommend you use Simplify3D and lower the printing speed to 3300 mm/min. Maybe slower to avoid warping. Use the default temperature and close the door of the printer.
Good luck
Hello Saad,
I have a N2 and use ideamaker for all my works, maybe I can help too. The best hint I can give you is to use ideamaker for your first prints, all templates are ready to use and will enusre good prints. I tried to use simplify3D and my prints was very bad, this slicer shouldn’t be used by beginners.
Can you tell us more about all parameters, slicer used, bed levelling, nozzle distance, and upload pictures of your quality issues? without these informations it’s impossible to help you.
Im swamped with work, but if you message me on instagram @droneworksnewyork i can trade messages with you and try to help.
