1

Hey everyone,

Planning on buying the HE3d DLT-600 ( http://www.reprap.cn/he3d-auto-level-singledual-extruder-delta-600-3d-printer-kit-p-124.html?cPath=4 ) and some separate parts to upgrade it. I know the He3D is not a very good printer but for the money and print size it’s perfect. I’m hoping with these upgrades i can make it better as well. Soo I’m planning on requesting a custom build of that printer WITHOUT the hotend, power supply, heated bed, extruder, and the electronics board. And then replacing them with these.

Board: Duet v0.85 Duet 3D

Print Bed: Boro Glass 350mm, 24 v Kapton Heater - 350 mm, and 348mm Heat spreader

Hotend: E3D Volcano http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Eruption-Pack-175

Extruder: Titan Extruder Titan Extruder – E3D Online

Power Supply: Meanwell NES-350-24

https://www.amazon.com/Mean-NES-350-24-Switching-Power-Supply/dp/B00KTJE3L4/ref=sr\_1\_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467308163&sr=8-1&keywords=meanwell+24v+power+supply

Does everything seem like it would go well with each other? Thanks in advance everyone!

2

Fingers crossed!

3

I’d be careful of the HB MOSFET and the power supplied to it. I might suggest the Reprap Power Expander for added safety.

4

Travis

Very interested in following this build… do you have a blog where you can track the build? Also if this works out that will be the darn cheapest (for its size) delta around… and I for one know the deltas print layers and such better than the current CNC and standard belt driven printers.

5

I think by the time you spend all that money on upgrades for a cheap and poorly thought out printer, you’d be better off starting with a higher quality machine like a Rostock max v2.

299(printer) + 89(duet) + 150(hotend/extruder) + 60 heatbed + 50(psu)

adds up to around $750 and your still likely to have issues due to the lack of stability from the weak frame and crappy arms.

A Rostock max is $999 and is very well thought out, comes with most of your planned upgrades, and its stock hotend/extruder is perfect for pla/abs.

1 Like
6

Hi,

Do you really need such a big delta printer?

Do you have any idea how the delta kinematics work? (ARM length vs print size etc.)

I will write my concerns here:

- The frame will be not be strength enough in such a size with plastic corner parts you have to purchase ALU corner parts:

Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Kossel-Mini-CNC-Aluminum-Anodized-Corner-SET-OF-6-PCS-RepRap-Delta-/121768449124?hash=item1c59f71464:g:a2sAAOSwA4dWGL23

- The belts will be week with the normal GT2 6mm (2m of belt at one tower!!!) you have upgrade it to 10mm wide and steel cord reinforced if your pulleys doesn’t support the 10mm ones they need to replaced also the top bearings for the belt.

- Please forget this 12/24V heat beds they simply make no sense. Just buy a Silicone heater PAD with 230V version with built in thermistor and an a SSR (DC-AC type). These heat up much faster and due to the SSR (Solid State Relay) its doesn’t use our electronics FETs so you will not need a big 24V powersupply a 24V 5A will be enough for the motors and print head.

- As you also drop the the default electronics, extuder, print head and print plate. I would suggest to buy the printer in parts, it will be cheaper.

Regards,

Tamas

7

As the owner if a 350mm diameter delta, I feel I should make a few comments here. Basically the concerns already raised by other posters are very valid. Belt stretch is a nightmare, I now run 15mm GT3, GT2 was terrible. Resolution is not as good near the edge of the build area, you really need to use different motors with a gear reduction on a big delta. Also massively long bowden tubes are also a pain. If I was to build another printer this size I would not pick a delta configuration.

8

GT3/15mm wow! How tall is your printer? How long are your arms?

Could you please share us some pictures of this beauty, I would love to see it.

Did you tried to hang the extruder above the platform with a counterweight(flying extruder mod)? It can solve the long bowden issue.
0zNnNo7[1].gif

9

I agree 100%. Just spend the extra money on getting a decent printer, instead of buying an awful quality one, upgrading it, and then having to deal with things like flex in the frame, belt stretch, low quality bearings etc.

By the time you have transformed the He3d into a decent machine that will work well, you will have spent nearly as much as the Rostock anyway. Plus, the Rostock is a GREAT printer, and has a large community to back up the fact that it is a good, high quality machine.

10

I originally looked at getting a rostock max V2, in fact they quoted me on an increased sized one which came out to about 1300. I know rostocks are AMAZING printers but I was looking into either building my own or buying a cheaper one and applying upgrades.

This is my FIRST printer i will be buying…and i know i should probably just buy a reputable kit.This is my current pick: Duet 3D

However, i would really like a printer with an increased build platform. As much as i would like to print smaller objects and little figures. I would love to print more functional things. So i knew Deltas were the way i wanted to go because as far as my research has gotten me…they’re faster, print finer details, and typically having bigger print volumes than cartesians. So a big Delta is what i’m after.

Perhaps the best move is to build my own, though this being my first printer i’m afraid i’ll miss something important.

My budget is 700 and below.

11

Ok so look for 15mm GT3, got it. Thanks for the input. What other printers for big build volume would you go for over your delta?

12

I do not have a blog unfortunately and this is my first printer so i’m learning as i go. I will however after this project post all parts i get and links to where they can be bought.

13

I’ll look into getting the power expander if i can’t find a silicon heat pad like the above user had recommended. Thank you

14

I do not need a big Delta, though i would really prefer one. For reasons explained in a above reply.

I do not know how Delta Kinematics work.

So get Aluminum corners, get GT3 15mm belts instead of GT2, and buy a silicone heating pad ( how does this one look: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Round-350MM-12V-270W-Silicone-Heater-Bed-For-Kossel-Pro-3D-Printer-Install-wih-100K-Thermistor/709519\_1982367067.html ? ) as opposed to a kapton heater.

I would definitely like to buy the printer in parts, and i’ve seen some BOM but i don’t know what to change or what will NEED to change from making my upgrades.

Which sites would you recommend for buying such parts?

15

Its a bit of a mess at the moment, perpetual work in progress and all that. To be honest I wouldn’t recommend GT3 15mm belts either, it was just an example of how things change when you stretch a delta. If your belts get too big you need bigger diameter pulleys, as your pulleys get bigger you lose your positional accuracy which you need even more as your print area gets bigger. There’s tradeoffs and compromises everywhere. My best results were probably with T2.5 10mm with urethane + steel belts, but my Chinese pulleys weren’t very round and that created other issues. My GT3 doesn’t stretch at all but my pulleys are a bit under size for steel reinforced belt, its not as flexible as nylon or Kevlar reinforced belt. I have not tried a suspended extruder, though I like the idea. I have a massive triple extruder for a diamond hot end and I wouldn’t want to try and suspend that…

printer_0.jpg
printer_0.jpg1494×2656 1.17 MB

16

I think that the general feel around this (and feel free to correct me if I’m wrong) is that, unless you are prepared to do a whole lot of upgrades, and spend a whole lot more money, the HE3d is really not a good idea. My personal opinion is that as a beginner, you should not go with a complex kit at all.

However I looks like you are pretty convinced about getting a BIG delta. So here is my advice: Stay way from low quality, no-name kits. With tat kind of price range, almost everything that you will be looking at will be a kit. Kits with low quality parts, little community support, or little documentation will just lead you to a path of never-ending print troubles and shabby upgrades. ESPECIALLY when you are talking about a machine as big and complex as a delta like that, the three above-mentioned points are so important.

Also (once again, just my opinion) I think that building your own is a VERY BAD idea. Unless you have a lot of experience in 3D printing, or at least a similar industry, building a complex machine, sourcing parts, understanding instructions, all of it can be nightmarish. You entioned that you are a beginner, and that would be a very steep learning curve to try and take.

So, my suggestion is a Kossel. It’s pretty comparable to the Rostock, has a similarly large community, and can be bought cheaply. Try not to go with a no-name one though. Something like a Folger Tech Kossel 2020? I’ve heard that they are great quality, and seem to print pretty well. Here’s a link: https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-kossel-2020-full-3d-printer-kit

1 Like
17

Thats actually a really good point I should have mentioned too. If you are new to printing, just learning about printing is a huge task. There is much to learn just about the process without throwing a difficult new printer into the mix too.

18

What do you think of this printer? Duet 3D

I like the Rostock but it’s a bit expensive.

19

Its a bit expensive and still have printed parts. This is the normal Kossel version, the print volume is not as big as you originally wanted.

I really suggest this kit:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Package-B-auto-level-k800-kossel-mini-Reprap-prusa-rostock-cheap-3d-printer-machine-kit-with/32480543201.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.387.PNcQBh&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_507_401,searchweb201603_3&btsid=f5664ace-4b17-427d-895d-72d5476aba2f

It have linear rails, these make a big difference for a smooth motion.

Electronics maybe need to replaced, but will be fine for the beginning (Delta kinematics uses 100% of the Arduino MEGA CPU power, so can have small stops during the print witch leave small blobs on the print, but using a 20x4 LCD (2004 LCD) and reducing the LCD refresh time can help, also reducing the delta segments from 200 to 120-140 will help).

After you get familiar with how a delta work, you can make some upgrades for it.

T.

20

ive looked for weeks for printers and i’ve never seen one with those parts for so cheap…i thought mine was the best i’d found but your pick looks even better for the price. Thank you