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Jan 2017

actually I just put TESA white tape on the blue bed and PLA works awesome(with a draft)

no need for that update anymore (so far)

but still good to know

I am also printing tons of upgrades for the filaments guides (dust filters …)

I will replace the black guides by PTFE plastic guides for filaments

and I’ll also try 0.2mm nozzles

the issue here is clearly the height

how come my glass is 4mm thick and it does not work

maybe becos it’s mirror glass , thought it was a better idea than regular glass

also other people tell me a shim is mendatory for that upgrade

what software ? FlashPrint does nnever trigger any usb printing and I had confirmation it was normal with the FFCP

I had to print a shim that was same thickness of glass and put on bed frame work between the rods to trigger the limit switch.

Flash forge creator pro.

You need to print out a spacer to put at the back around the z-screw. You can find several designs for various glass thickness on Thingiverse.com 4.

I print to my FF Pro all the time with USB, using Simplify3D, but I think it’s common to most slicing software. I’d suggest printing via USB is the more common method for consumer 3D printers, with printing via SD card usually being an additional feature. Of course, you have to make sure the software has actually recognised the printer and you’ve selected the right COM port, etc. Octoprint uses USB to communicate as well, so if you can do it via Octoprint, you should be able to do it via the PC directly.

I accidentaly hit the usb cable moving the printer and it indeed canceled the print

nice …f~#king flashforge arduino

Yes, the shim is needed unless you want to move the limit switch which makes no sense to do. I told you this at the start of this thread and so has every one else.

you have to print out a Z spacer and install it in the printer before installing the glass bed check thingiverse they have several