in my profile I can see my post, but there is no way to click on them to go to the thread page
come on !!! has this been writen by ewoks ?
anyway happy new year, and can someone tell me why in 2017, there is no way to print via usb…people saying 3D printing involves too much data passing through usb, ??? I think usb can handle these files that we store on SD cards just fine, and nothing on earth keeps any chip to write files received from a pc through usb cable to a bloody SD card, and then use it as usual…this is ludicrous…even if it tales ages, at least we would have the choice
can someone en-light me on this ? I really dont want to install octoprint on a bloody raspberry…wich will probably use the usb cable to talk to the printer anyway …wtf ???
It is quite possible to print via usb and many people do it all the time. USB can definitely handle the data (under normal conditions) that pass through to the printer. Some of the problems that can arise though are: 1.) USB is handled by Windows, and especially Win 10 can do seemingly strange things like shut down USB to save battery usage, or interrupt the data stream as windows does what it considers to be much more important processes. 2.) Again especially WIN 10 wants to do updates that it thinks are much more important than anything else that the computer may be doing at the time, then decide it is time to restart the computer because, hey who would be using there computer at 3am right? (What? you say thats 18hrs into your 20 hr 3d print??)
3.) People want use that 12ft usb cable to plug in their printer that they got from China for 99 cents, it has to be good quality right?
Of course if you can make sure that you fix all these settings in Windows, but you never know for sure!
That being said I do print through usb sometimes, but I have screamed at my screen a couple of times when I see the Win notification saying ‘It looks like Windows can Restart your computer at 3am…’ NNNOOO!! I will be in the middle of a 10hr print!!!
I’ve been using a custom-cut tempered glass bed. Unfortunately all I could find in tempered glass was 1/8" thick, which meant I also had to replace the springs on the bed to shorter ones, so that the nozzle head wouldn’t hit. I’d say the whole process took less than half an hour (toughest part was removing the sticky stock print bed).
I got the glass from onedayglass.com 3. Specs: tempered, rectangle, 9/18" x 6 1/16", 1/8" thick, clear, seamed edge. As a tip, order two of them. The piece price drops to make it the same cost as ordering one.
I got the springs from McMaster, Item #9657K275.
I’ve had no issues at all printing with this construction, prints stick really well to the bed (some hairspray at times helps them adhere).
I run 5mm thick glass on all 4 of mine. No issues, you need the right size glass, measure your bed yourself, and a clip to go on the z axis behind the bed (thingiverse) and clips for the corners again, thingiverse.
Don’t use cheap glass, I know everyone does, but good glass = good experiances!
Mine came with a spacer that triggered the limit switch on my dreamer. I turned on my printer to make sure that the limit switch would trigger and stop the bed from moving up. Once it was in level mode and and had stopped moving I lowered my bed a bit and then slid the glass in. That’s when I restarted the leveling process
Yes, the shim is needed unless you want to move the limit switch which makes no sense to do. I told you this at the start of this thread and so has every one else.
