I have been asked to help share some info on getting the most out of the Mankati 3D Printer. Firstly we have several machines here at DNK Systems and use them all for different reasons. We consider the mankati as a great workhorse machine that is its not spectacular in any particular facet however it is reliable and predictable this is why we can turn to the mankati time again. for many of our prints.
We have done loads of printing with our machine from 80 micron through to 350 micron. see them at our hub
Below is my comments on Printing the Marvin with the mankati and hope that it helps you to create a successful print. you can see my original comments HERE
Feel free to disagree, comment or just yell at the computer, any info for free is gold.
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The 80micron print wasn’t the Marvin it the other image labelled 80micron print (Marvin was done on our dnk enhanced machine apologies for the confusion) however I found that it was more the process than the machine so these would be the things that I feel made the difference for a fairly clean print abs Marvin.
My thoughts on printing the Marvin with ABS
- Nozzle size I printed 0.2mm but 0.3 on the mankati would be fine and work just as well.
- Keep the printing temp low I printed at 230 but each machine will change so test this. too cool will delaminate the part layers.
- Cool air over the part to assist in bridging, this is ok for small parts but a big no no for large ones or thin walls with ABS. the fan also helps in cooling the layers to give more consistent layer forming and reduce layer spillage.
- Bed level it really well or if you are too busy just print a raft, this helps compensate for bed levelling issues if you want to just print fast and get it done. this is esp true when printing fine layers.
- A good base like buildtak helps heaps as well. its also means that the bed temp can be tuned down.
- I use different slicing applications for different tasks so learn heaps about all sorts of slicing applications you will be paid off in results. for this part I used cura. however im trailing other slicers now and getting slightly better results again. (on my dnk machine that is)
- Speed: as your printing with low temps with a tighter nozzle print speeds need to come down considerably.
- infill you need good infill but not 100% as we are cooling the part infill will help heaps with the ABS cooling.
So apologies for any confusions but we have several machines we use. but personally there is no reason why you cant get the Mankati to print to the same levels. We use our mankati heaps.
Regards
Dave
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Great tips, thanks for sharing guys!
Hey @awhv, thanks for the post, but do you have any pictures of that? It’d be really great to visualize it!