Excellent reply, thanks Joe. I’ll keep your tips in mind when preparing the print for my next attempt!
Braian
January 22, 2015, 5:06pm
10
Hi I need to see the screen capture from the form1 software (formlabs)
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I’m getting good results with hollowing solids using netfabb private. It’s not free tho. Again, whenever you have a (larger) cavity, or a hollow object, you need vent holes, otherwise the print will fail. I’m printing a lot of shells and some open ones can be printed by just adjusting orientation, but normally, I like to adjust orientation so that the supports are on the back of the object (like you did) and then a venting duct (or two) really make the difference.
Hi Robin, I got a Form 1+ and I have printed complex models but sometimes I got the same result. One trick that I found it´s usefull is to increase the quality of the model to 0.25 mm because this gives more time to the resin to catalyse beetwen layers. Another thing you could try is to change the orientation of the model to avoid the vacuum in that area. The vaccum that it´s generated in the resin tank when is peeling the layer is generating the rupture in your part. I have tryed also to increase the support but to be honest they broke also with the piece. Another thing you can also try is to generate a thin wall in your model (about 1.5 mm). When I export the CAD file, the sofware has an option to create a wall so It creates a hollow model. With this option you can reduce the cross section of your model and the vacuum in the resin tank.
Regards,
Daniel
Hi Robin,
Id like to go with Tobias his trouble shoot this will probebly work, taken in account that the peeling proces of the form 1 an + is a physical proces its likley the cause of the failed print. The less stress on the physical peel the better the result! its hard to judge but you wil get a feel for it when you keep on printing more and more.
Did you used internal supports ? make sure that you check your layers carefully in the slicer and manually ad support if suspiciouse don’t save to much on supports there there for a reason! If there is residu of the failed layers in the vat make sure you filter the resin with a panty hose (that is what i’m doing when things like this happen) flakes in your resin compromises prints when continuing with residu
Good luck
Marcel
Temujin
January 22, 2015, 5:30pm
14
There could be several reasons why the jaw didn’t form. I’ll start with Orientation.
I have had the most success when I orient the part with the largest cross section thickest region of the part closest to the build platform and the smallest details furthest away from the build platform.
The largest cross section/thickest region of the part should be furthest away from the hinge side of the build platform.
The part should be oriented along an axis perpendicular to the hinge side, so if there is a long side to the part it should be perpendicular to the hinge side of the build platform.
Resin: The resin could be old or maybe there are partially cured blobs that need to be filtered out (fine mesh paint filter should work)
Mirrors: Carefully wipe the large mirror, as per instructions on FormLabs web site.
Temperature: did the temperature fluctuate, i.e. get much colder during the printing process? If it gets too cold the resin flows less easily then it is intended too.
Resin Tank: is it cloudy anywhere in the PDMS layer? This can happen after 1-2 bottles of resin. There is some discussion about using a surficant (spelling?) called Rain-X in the US, that is claimed by some Form 1+ users, to inhibit the clouding.
Good luck!
1 Like
Temujin
January 22, 2015, 5:32pm
15
I am almost forgot to ask if your part is hollow/shelled. This is important as it is creates less physical stress on the material during printing, so there are fewer chances of a print fail. (I didn’t read all of the comments).
Same advice as Joe. However, I doubt its dust on the mirror since the rest of the print looks pretty good.
The “suction” problem sounds like it could be feasible also. Turning the print a little more on its side might take care of that one.
Scroll through the print layers in PreForm to see if you have any islands or really thin overhangs near the layers where it failed. Make sure you click the “internal supports” box and manually add supports to the area that failed and any areas with islands or overhangs. PreForm is pretty good about turning problem areas red but it misses problem areas from time to time.
The chances of print fails go way up after you have run around a half liter or more of resin through a tray. Sometimes the trays don’t last very long before prints start sticking. That’s a function of how many peals and lazes different areas of the tray has seen and what layer resolution you are using.
Also, not in this case but in general, the taller your print the more likely it is to fail since supports can’t always hold the print rigidly enough to ensure they peal from the tray at the layers further away from the build plate.
Post up if you find out what the actual culprit was.
I’m pretty impressed at that Ultimaker2 print. That’s really top notch quality for a FDM printer.
Good luck.
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Hi
First of all, you need to go to the formlabs user forum - it’s a must if you own a form 1. The reason for that failure looks to me to primarily have been caused by printing your model solid (or very thick). Prints on the form1 or form1+ should be hollow if possible, with a ‘shell’ around1.5mm - 3mm thick. FDM printers like the ultimaker don’t care if the model is hollow or not, that’s not the case with the form1/1+. So, basically what everyone else has said!
4 Likes
I was having the same dilemma…
Zbrush is great for shelling models.
Sometimes prints can just fail like that due to bad luck, I’ve had a print fail like that only to work fine the 2nd time. Check for dust on the mirror and tray bottom as even a small amount of dust could weaken a single area so that it doesn’t cure properly and rips away, and subsequent layers on that spot stick and over cure which slowly brings adjacent layers with it.
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Hi, this usually happens when the printing layers have no time to cool down.
There are 2 things you can do to fix this:
1. Cooling. Add a fan that blows cool air on the print. Lots of people print a fan duct to add a stream of air on the print object. Look at thingyverse, lots of air duct models.
2. Add another model(s). Now the extruder head has to travel between multiple objects. That creates time for a layer to cool down and settle before the next layers is printed.
Hope this helps, good luck!
Wrong technology, the problem is with an sla printer, not an FDM one.
I did not read all of the replies so this may be a repeat.
1. did you orient it or let the software orient it?
2. were there any red areas on the print preview with supports created?
3. Hollowing is probably not your problem as the rest of the build went fine.
4. Look at the bottom of the tray after it is cleaned out to see if it has gotten cloudy. This could have happened during the build where it might have gotten to a tipping point. I say this because you said you had you did previous builds and they turned out okay.
5. Was a hard blob let in the tray?
I think the biggest problem is probably the orientation since you said you laid it flat on its back which might have caused that part of the jaw to have unsupported areas.
1 Like
Brian
January 23, 2015, 9:32am
24
Thanks Tony, great feedback!
I would say that you have dirty mirrors or a resin tank. Try to place the model somwhere else on the build platform.
jmilne
January 23, 2015, 4:12pm
26
Features like jaws, ears and noses are inherently overhang features, you should start assessing print failures by considering how it was orientated and supported.
1 Like
Robin3D
January 23, 2015, 4:23pm
27
Hey everyone!
I just have to say, I’m absolutely overwhelmed with the amount of help and advise I got in 24 hours! Thank you guys so much. I’ll keep all your feedback in mind and try again soon!
All the best!
