Skip to main content
Check the bed temperature, it should be 60 C will be enough instead of having 110 C.
Ensure that you have your top cover off and door open for ventilation. Bed temp is lower than ABS, 60-70C.
Totally agree with you here. This seems like an adhesion problem which in turn could be either bed level or bed surface. If you have the upgraded Flashforge extruder heads (one with the fan and duct on the side) I would make sure the fan is on at least 60% for the 1st layer and 100% until finished. I also use the UHU glue stick, works wonders. I tend to do a “flush” procedure when changing between ABS and PLA, which is preheat to 270°C and run the PLA or ABS through, this seems to liquefy any leftovers that may cause a problem. I’ve attached a guide that could help, I understand that it is for Ultimaker but I use it as a reference for my FF machines and for my Marlin based machines.
A visual troubleshooting guide - 3DVerkstan Knowledge Base.pdf 2 (5.93 MB)
Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Professional Hair Spray Unscented
The Purple can. Works great for PLA and gives a nice finish on the bottom. Glue sticks tend to be a bit chunky.
Other hair sprays work, but not quite as well as the Aqua Net
Print with a double skirt and adjust the bed while its printing. That should give you enough time to play with the bed knobs before the actual print starts.
PLA prints beautifully for me with the bed temp set to 50C. Any higher, then larger parts start to exhibit “elephants foot”.
If using glass, put on a light coat of PVA (UHU glue stick).
However, I normally use the Flashforge blue bed sheet and it works great. You can buy this stuff from the FlashForge Store, but I’m pretty sure that it is actually Buildtak 3 - which you can buy on Amazon or directly from buildtak.com 4. This stuff is amazing.
The only time I use glass/PVA is when printing Nylon.
Make sure the bed height is set correctly, if too high it won’t stick and will form a huge glob, if to low it may cause a rough first layer. Also make sure that the filament comes straight out the nozzle when you extrude into open air. If it’s curling to the side, you have a partial nozzle clog.
I am actually able to print gigantic parts on the FlashForge in PLA with no warping. I leave the door closed and cover in place like when printing ABS. (You normally do want to remove the lid and open the door for extra airflow when printing PLA, but in certain cases - very large and thick parts - it helps to keep it closed up)
Hey Mikaela, if interested in getting yourself a Buildtak sheet, make sure to use your Hub perks 1 for a sweet discount 
Good luck with solving this! Cheers