Flashforge Creator Pro Prints fail?/

[CyberSquidd]

Hello,

First off, I just want to say that I just bought this printer a week ago, (This 3D Printer is for school) and I have printed about 20 objects on it. Then they stopped sticking to the build plate, so what I did is replace the sticker, and it fixed that issue. But one issue still continues. I have a frequent problem, where I cannot print high-quality prints. This printer can print very high-quality prints, but I have tried using different settings, (using MakerBot desktop software) unloading and loading the filament, and wiping the extruder nozzle with 91% isopropyl alcohol. But, the problem still persists. I am using the included ABS filament that came with the 3D printer to do my prints (red). If anyone could PLEASE help me that would be great. I need to have it fixed soon because the printer is half the school’s and half mine, and I need to print the 3D objects to stay in power of this project. Here is a picture of what the 3d prints come out like on its highest quality profile (yes, it comes out like this on low, standard AND high-quality profiles):

[wirlybird]

If you are going to use the Makerbot software make sure you are set up to the correct printer. Should be a Replicator 1 (Dual) not the 2.

I would go out and get Flashprint for free. It comes with the Flashforge Creator Pro or get Simplify 3D but it is not free.

Ok, so ABS. First you will need the cabinet completely closed. All sides on and the top. I put a thermometer inside mine to know the chamber temp. I usually preheat the bed for a while to get the temp up. I like to get to 28-30c before I get to printing.

What temps, speeds etc. are you using?

I think this will get you to Flashprint.

Flashforge Professional 3D Printer Manufacture - 浙江闪铸三维科技有限公司

[CyberSquidd]

Thanks for replying,

I actually made a mistake writing the text…

I don’t have any 3D Printer selected in the “Type of device” menu… I have "FF Creator Pro (USB) selected right above the “Remote Printers” Option in “devices”.

I will try to use Flashprint, but I like makerbot desktop because it has all of the options for your print… (For example, I want to print support with HIPS soon. Getting some in the mail later… But also, still keeping the prints in ABS.)

[Ravitch]

Hi CyberSquid,

In order to help you please provide a detailed list of your print settings. I don’t use MakerBot software on my FlashForge clone, but settings are settings, so shouldn’t be too difficult to see what is going on. It might be easier to screen shot/screen clip each settings panel (not sure how MakerBot is set up, Simplify3D has each setting split in tabs…just make sure you post them all).

Just from looking at the pic, I’d guess you have both a severe over-extrusion issue, and overheating issue.

Also, here is a handy guide Simplify3D made to help troubleshoot bad prints. Print Quality Guide | Simplify3D Software

[CyberSquidd]

I also want to add that I am printing a test print, and it seems to be going okay other than the first 2 layers (raft) which tend to get a little bit weird. One of my concerns is the print speed. It is going really fast… If you had a recommended print speed for dual extruders that would be awesome.

Thanks again,

Carter

[CyberSquidd]

Hey Ravitch,

I recently downloaded FlashPrint, as wirleybird instructed. I have found that this works better for my prints. I am using this right now to do a test print, and it is working. I will post a picture when it is finished… This is also my first dual extrusion print, and it seems to be going perfectly. I just am worried about the speed part of this. I am about 100% sure that is where the issues are coming from. it is only the raft that has these issues, but the rest seems to be fine… I may not need any more help other than the speed settings.

Thanks,

Carter

[CyberSquidd]

Ravitch,

Here are a few screenshots of my print speeds using ABS.

General: http://imgur.com/gallery/fNy7r

Perimeter: http://imgur.com/gallery/O4KuI

Infill: http://imgur.com/gallery/Dc1cU

Supports: http://imgur.com/gallery/sBxOh

Additional Settings: http://imgur.com/gallery/acOQf

(second monitor came through in second pics, idk why but here)

Advanced: http://imgur.com/a/Yh31H

Others: http://imgur.com/gallery/dUqJU

hope that helps, if you have any idea on things I could change, please list them and I will apply them to my default settings.

[Ravitch]

Based on your settings I can tell you speed isn’t the issue at all, at least from my experience. Slowest I print is 60mm a sec, but usuall 80mm a sec unless I’m printing for a customer and need to avoid corner ringing/vibrations.

Your bed and extruder temps look too low. I’d put the bed at 110 and extruder at 230 as a start point.

You have your cooling fans set to always on, which is going to cause trouble on your first layer. I’m not sure how Flashprint works, but ideally you want cooling off on your first layer. I also caveat that I’ve fully abandoned ABS, it’s too much of a pain to deal with and I can print just as good for the same price with less of the chemical fallout in PLA Pro (HD, +, or various other names) or PETG.

How are you leveling your bed? You may have a leveling issue built into a combo of other issues. I start with the left corner closest to me and work my way around the bed counter clockwise. Use a sheet of printer paper and level tight enough that you feel solid friction pushing the paper with thumb and finger but the paper doesn’t curl. Lots of friction good, paper curling bad.

[CyberSquidd]

Ravitch,

thanks for replying.

I will try the different print temps, and I will also try to turn the fan off for the raft.

One thing is that I cannot use PLA because I need watertight prints. (Most of the things that these people are designing in the school are vases, pots, etc.)

My bed is perfectly level, I have leveled it numerous times. I used one of those tubes with the bubble in it to check, and sure enough, perfectly level.

Thanks,

Carter

[wirlybird]

Ok, first problem. You don’t use a level to “level” the bed. “Level” is an abstract generalized term. You need to use the leveling routing that is for the printer. When someone says “level” it means to make the bed a consistent and defined distance from the extruder nozzle. If this is not correct then you will have first layer problems.

Most of the time the leveling is run from the printers control panel and people usually use a regular sheet of paper. If this is not what you are doing then I advise to google it or Youtube to see how it is done.

Until you have the bed set correctly you will never get good or consistent prints.

[CyberSquidd]

I realize that, and it came with a specific paper for leveling, (the exact distance between the extruder and the bed) I just used the leveler to make sure it was flat, not to fix it. I have leveled it numerous times with the built-in leveling options.

Sorry about that, bad wording…

[Ravitch]

Hi Carter,

I use PLA for watertight prints all the time. My house is full of self watering pots and vases made out of PLA. If your extrusion settings are good, your print bed is level, and you have enough solid layers you’ll be plenty watertight. It’s just word of mouth from people on forums and Reddit who only tried with weak solid layer numbers and extruders that aren’t calibrated or set right.

Total side note but but from the short time I used FlashPrint I thought it had a fan on first layer setting, but it’s been a while so not sure. Look forward to see how your next attempt is.

[jfield]

Also remember that ABS will absorb water if left unsealed for a period of time. You should seal it up, in between printing, in a ziploc bag with desiccant. If it gets wet, you will have all kinds of problems and you will probably hear popping sounds from the extruded material as the moisture heats to steam.