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Dec 2016

Ravitch,

Here are a few screenshots of my print speeds using ABS.

General: http://imgur.com/gallery/fNy7r 10

Perimeter: http://imgur.com/gallery/O4KuI 5

Infill: http://imgur.com/gallery/Dc1cU 2

Supports: http://imgur.com/gallery/sBxOh 3

Additional Settings: http://imgur.com/gallery/acOQf 1

(second monitor came through in second pics, idk why but here)

Advanced: http://imgur.com/a/Yh31H 2

Others: http://imgur.com/gallery/dUqJU 1

hope that helps, if you have any idea on things I could change, please list them and I will apply them to my default settings.

Based on your settings I can tell you speed isn’t the issue at all, at least from my experience. Slowest I print is 60mm a sec, but usuall 80mm a sec unless I’m printing for a customer and need to avoid corner ringing/vibrations.

Your bed and extruder temps look too low. I’d put the bed at 110 and extruder at 230 as a start point.

You have your cooling fans set to always on, which is going to cause trouble on your first layer. I’m not sure how Flashprint works, but ideally you want cooling off on your first layer. I also caveat that I’ve fully abandoned ABS, it’s too much of a pain to deal with and I can print just as good for the same price with less of the chemical fallout in PLA Pro (HD, +, or various other names) or PETG.

How are you leveling your bed? You may have a leveling issue built into a combo of other issues. I start with the left corner closest to me and work my way around the bed counter clockwise. Use a sheet of printer paper and level tight enough that you feel solid friction pushing the paper with thumb and finger but the paper doesn’t curl. Lots of friction good, paper curling bad.

Ravitch,

thanks for replying.

I will try the different print temps, and I will also try to turn the fan off for the raft.

One thing is that I cannot use PLA because I need watertight prints. (Most of the things that these people are designing in the school are vases, pots, etc.)

My bed is perfectly level, I have leveled it numerous times. I used one of those tubes with the bubble in it to check, and sure enough, perfectly level.

Thanks,

Carter

Ok, first problem. You don’t use a level to “level” the bed. “Level” is an abstract generalized term. You need to use the leveling routing that is for the printer. When someone says “level” it means to make the bed a consistent and defined distance from the extruder nozzle. If this is not correct then you will have first layer problems.

Most of the time the leveling is run from the printers control panel and people usually use a regular sheet of paper. If this is not what you are doing then I advise to google it or Youtube to see how it is done.

Until you have the bed set correctly you will never get good or consistent prints.

I realize that, and it came with a specific paper for leveling, (the exact distance between the extruder and the bed) I just used the leveler to make sure it was flat, not to fix it. I have leveled it numerous times with the built-in leveling options.

Sorry about that, bad wording…

Hi Carter,

I use PLA for watertight prints all the time. My house is full of self watering pots and vases made out of PLA. If your extrusion settings are good, your print bed is level, and you have enough solid layers you’ll be plenty watertight. It’s just word of mouth from people on forums and Reddit who only tried with weak solid layer numbers and extruders that aren’t calibrated or set right.

Total side note but but from the short time I used FlashPrint I thought it had a fan on first layer setting, but it’s been a while so not sure. Look forward to see how your next attempt is.

Also remember that ABS will absorb water if left unsealed for a period of time. You should seal it up, in between printing, in a ziploc bag with desiccant. If it gets wet, you will have all kinds of problems and you will probably hear popping sounds from the extruded material as the moisture heats to steam.