Which software are you using?
Simplify 3D is really good investment from my perspective. I tried many freeware program and decided to buy simplify3d and print quality had a sharp increase.
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Matt,
Can you tell us about the slicer and slicer settings you used for both prints?
Anthony
Right now I’m using the Sailfish Replicator G software that came on the SD card included with the printer.
I also printed via USB connection, as opposed to the SD card. I’m wondering if that would make a difference…?
Hi I have the same flashforge creator pro I’ve been printing with it for about 10 months and I have noticed that a few models come out like that I would recommend printing a model that has no overhang like a cylinder as I found this printed perfectly
Also try changing to 0.1mm
Hey Matt,
I’ve always used makerbot desktop, previously makerware, on my flash forge and I hardly ever get bad prints with settings that I’ve found on an Amazon review a little over a year ago, this are custom settings and you must edit them using text editor in makerbot desktop, with such settings you’ll probably get an error message before the slicing is done and I believe is the “doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells” so leave that as false instead of true, apart from that works fine, tinker with layer height and platform temp depending on the model you want to print…
Install latest Sailfish firmware, use Makerbot slicer or even better Simplify 3D plus check all belts to be tight and all pulleys to be firmly screwed.
Don’t expect wonders but you should be able to reach the same results as the white print.
Your layer height is too thick causing adhesion and resolution issues. For best results don’t print thicker than 50% of the nozzle diameter.
Hey Matt,
Since all of my printers use exlusively .gcode files, I’ve never had to fiddle with any conversion. So I can’t give you any input on that. What I do know is, that there are plugins for Cura, that should allow you to output .x3g files. The Ultimaker forums (makers of Cura) or just Google in general should be a good source for this. The plugins are also really easy to install, once you have Cura running. Just be sure to use Cura versions 15.4 or earlier, the 15.6 versions and up are only for the Ultimaker 2 family of printers right now.
Sincerely,
Jonas
The thing that I have found makes the most difference is your speed. My default settings in Replicator G were way too fast. On difficult prints, like spheres, I’ll slow it down to 24mm/sec and a travel speed of 30mm/sec. Simpler shapes can go faster, but I rarely go any faster 48 & 60 mm/sec
You should never print with a layer height that is more than 80% of the nozzle width, otherwise your interlayer bonding will be seriously compromised. The largest practicle layer height for a FFCP with the stock 0.4mm nozzle is 0.3mm.
If you try to print with say 0.4mm layer height, you will have virtualy no contact between the two layers, its like two 0.4mm cylinders laying ontop of each other, there is only a very thin strip of contact where the circumference of the plastic that makes up the layer touches each other, printing at say 0.3mm means that each layer is pushed 0.1mm into the layer below it, which flattens the bottom of that cylinder, and significantly increases bonding. If you tried to print at say 0.5mm with a 0.4mm nozzle the layers would theoreticaly not be touching each other and the print would fall apart.
14 days later
These settings seem to also be helping my prints a lot. But have you figured out how to switch extruders in Makerbot desktop? I can only seem to get prints using the right extruder. I changed the “defaultExtruder” settings to “1” and also clicked on the Object information and switched to the other extruder, but it still only prints with the right one! Any help would be awesome!!