1) Did you try screwing in both nozzles until they truly stopped against the aluminum heater blocks (with amber Kapton tape). The aluminum heater blocks should both bottom out in the larger common aluminum mounting block. The aluminum mounting block should be parallel to the linear bearings/stainless bars - this is not adjustable without shims. It is also possible that the whole print head isn’t seated correctly in its carriage - this is installed by the customer.
3) For ABS, try some “ABS Juice” on your blue print bed - it almost works too well so be careful removing parts. For PLA try some Kapton tape or blue tape on the bed. Rough up the tape with some light sand paper and remove the dust with a damp cloth.
hey Andre i hope all is well… the nozzles actually screw in there. like a nut. perhaps you can unscrew or screw one of the other to the same level should do the trick. also, i ditched that blue pad it comes with and i bought a fleks3d and a glue stick. i rarely have a problem with my prints not sticking… unless its nylon. still to this point in time, i havent figured that one out !
You absolutely can’t just unscrew like a nut. The nozzle must be fully seated to the thermal barrier tube.
Flashforge ships their nozzles fully seated to the hot block. This is wrong. You need to unscrew the nozzle about 1/2 turn and then tighten the thermal tube against the nozzle, then after heating, again tighten nozzle. The nozzle will hang down a little lower after this so lower the bed some by tightening the leveling screws.
You do not want to bottom out the heaters into the aluminum cooling block. For one, the top of the thermal tube wont go up that far without hitting the plastic extruder mechanism. You also want a gap to avoid heating the bar too much. Normal height of the hot ends is about even with where the bevel ends on the thermal tube to the cooling block/bar…
There are other benefits to this setup past not having to gall up your thermal tubes with a set screw. Eventually this makes the hot end impossible to get out of the cooling bar. There is better heat transfer from the thermal tube to the cooling block since there are more metal to metal points of contact. The heatsink setup is far better and easier to disassemble.
That is not correct advice to “loosen” or “tighten” a nozzle to correct height. You must move the complete hot end up or down to change height. The hot end is under extreme heat and pressure and any leakage will blow the plastic past the threads or out the top of the hot block.
Yes, you can shim up the not end with a piece of foil, but that moves the whole assembly and does not cure the real problem. We did that on a Flash Forge - Creator Pro, and it worked but also caused other problems. So, you “not correct advice. . .” is also not exact. You could have been a bit more diplomatic about your suggestion. Your statement is a bit harsh and rude.
too hot i have a ctc makerbot clone with a homemade enclosure and i print abs at 205c with a fan on for small things and 210c for big and the bad at 100c to 110c and abs juice is amazing and for pla lower the bed to 40c to 50c and use a fan blowing at the nozzles works for me but you may have to tweak it
