There are 2 other things I can suggest that I don’t think have been mentioned. Check your STL file. There could be a slight gap below it when you are making a print file that is causing it not to be all the way on the plate. It can be a sight bump in one spot that you may not notice is there, or it could be that the part is not perfectly square with the build plate. Even one degree off and you will get this problem. Even if the STL is perfect and you don’t place it all the way on the plate it can cause this problem. Also, someone mentioned making sure you have the right blue tape. They are right - this is very important. The best blue tape I have found is Ace Hardware brand tape, and I have tried many brands. They sell it in 2.5" an 3" widths and it works so well that I can print wide parts without any sort of peeling up on the edges. If you can’t find Ace Brand then get tape that is not shiny. You can buy it online if you don’t have a store near you.
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Good idea to check for the part possibly floating. That will make it do this every time. However, they did mention that it also occurs with rafts which should be impossible to have them floating. Thanks for the tip on Ace brand tape!
You have a very interesting problem, but I know one thing…
DO NOT TURN UP YOUR EXTRUDER TEMPERATURE!!
This will not help with your problem, and it may damage the extruder if you go over 245 Degrees (Celsius). Your problem is interesting because it has a few different problems, and it has a few different fixes. My first recommendation would be to check your homing. All 5th Generation Makerbot’s vary in homing heights, and this also varies in Smart Extruders. For this reason, I recommend running a new print every time you swap extruders. However, from the picture I can infer that this is probably something you should fix in MakerBot Desktop. Try squishing your first layer for print bed adhesion. (Adjust the Z-Offset). Another thing you could try is adding just a bit of glue to your plate. Don’t smear globs on, just a nice thin layer. This usually does the trick for most adhesion problems. Yet another thing you can try is changing filaments. I think somebody already mentioned that problems DO come with having old filament, including bed-adhesion. Try changing to some newer filament, this may help. My final suggestion would be checking your painters tape. Weird as it may sound, the type of painters tape you have may affect your adhesion! Some painters tapes don’t adhere very well. I have personally had the best luck with ACE Hardware’s tape.
I really hope this helps! As you can see, I know many possible solutions. It really varies on the problem, and I would just recommend trying each of my suggestions until one works! I really hope this helps!
Jackson
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As indicated by others the spacing is too much. Need to watch closely when print starts and make small adjustment while print is starting. Takes a little practice, but even with what seems to be a perfectly level plate this is usually necessary. As for the tape, I and others have found that the best tape is actual Scotch brand masking tape and the trick is a wipe down with an alcohol soaked (not dripping) paper towel to slightly dampen and activate the surface. This works great! Use the alcohol trick with whatever tape you use.
I had this issue on my flash forge dreamer. It turns out there was a SLIGHT blockage (Contaminate) in the feeder tube inside the heater block. I was able to pull this apart and remove the contaminant and it worked beautifully.
