I don’t know Replicator 5th generation BUT it is definitively a first layer adhesion problem. As it has been said: the only bluetape which will work is the 3M 2090 (any size). Do not use other blue tapes like Tesa. It is too smooth to handle prints.
I remain at your disposal for more information.
Hi. And just another tip to prevent filament jam using the “old” smart extruder: Use this dust filter 86…
try the BuildTak bedding: www.buildtak.com 42. We have no issues at all with sticking and you don’t necessarily need heated bedding. The only moments we have issues, is when we have to print flat items (approx 3-5mm thick), then there is the curling of corners happening, for which I still am looking for a solution
Try ramping up the extruder temp to 260C
Buildtak, bigger raft (try 8 or 10 mm) and Z-axis manual offset - take the build plate closer! Printing without raft is always troublesome. Printing on blue tape should not be a problem at all unless you are printing things that are as big as build plate.
No need to ramp up the temp at all. It wont help in this case. Is this a rep5, mini or Z18? It looks like the extruder homed a little too far from the build plate. If so, it can be adjusted in MakerBot desktop. You need a nice squish on the first layer. Just to note…each extruder may home to a slightly different height. If you are swapping extruders youll have to do a test print to be sure your z-offset is correct if your want to print raftless.
Adjust the Z-probe offset. Or do this.This is what I do. It was from another post, intended for another person. But it is a quick and dirty way to fix your issue.
Don’t ramp up the extruder temp!!!
You’ll destroy your extruder… if temp goes over 245° you risk to damage the PTFE Tube inside…
It wont let you go past like 244-243. Trust me, I have tried. Makerbot stupid proofed their PTFE hot end. I really wish they would have just made an all metal hot end…
Increase the extruder temp.
add a bit of glue stick.
When this happens to me in my studio, we have 3 of the 5th generations, a swap of the filament is usually the first attempt to problem solve, and it usually does the trick. Filament is temperamental, and has a shelf life. If exposed to a too dry or too humid environment, or variations in temp, we tend to see this affect it pretty consistently. If it’s not the filament, after switching 1 to 2 spools, we adjust the temp settings in makerbots desktop software, or our other slicing software.if the initial extrude temp is not hot enough this can be the issue. The final check would be if the extruder itself Is having heat issues, or perhaps is not making correct contact with the print bed. A simple recalibration/level here won’t hurt, but if it’s the extruder failing, you may want to swap that extruder with a new one, or different one, and see if it prints with this new one.
I think the build plate is too far from the nozzle.
Sometimes the levelling is not enough and you have to calibrate it a little more.
Here are the instructions how to do it:
It’s true that having a higher temperature for first layers will impact a lot adhesion. I do not know Makerbot softwares but, in Simplify 3D, you can select different settings for different heights of the print.
I always set higher temps for 5 first layers (around 220°C for colorFabb PLA/PHA) and then lower the temp for next layers (195°C for colorFabb PLA/PHA).
It will make the first layer to make a very good adhesion.
In Simplify 3D, you can also change settings for the very first layer (height, width, speed). This will also impact a lot the quality of your print.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/perfecting-the-first-layer/ 19
and this very good guide:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ 5
This is not true: Polytétrafluoroéthylène — Wikipédia
PTFE tubing will resist 250°C and in fact, the temperature at this point of the hotend is much lower.
One more time, I do not know Makerbot 5th generation but, for example, with e3D hotends, even if you set 270°C for the thermistor point, the temperature will never reach a high temp where the PTFE is inserted.
Have you verified that the filament diameter matches what the software thinks it is? For example, if the filament actually measures at 1.69 and the software thinks it is 1.75, you can end up with some strange extrusion issues. There absolutely is an issue with the extruder not being close enough to the build plate (as others have all been saying), but those strands at the top of the picture don’t quite look right. They should be closer together and thicker if that’s not a raft, and farther apart and much thicker if that is a raft.
Also, filament doesn’t just end up on the extruder mysteriously. The way it typically happens is from a small piece of filament that sticks around after the purge of the nozzle. This extra material can cause a snag if the print isn’t sticking to the build plate well. A less common reason for filament to end up on the nozzle is a result of the nozzle not being properly tightened in the extruder. I have seen filament ooze out of the threaded area of the nozzle and get all over the nozzle that way. A third way that this can happen is a result of a partial filament jam in the nozzle you can tell this during the loading of filament… if the filament flows straight down while loading, you are good. If the filament bends and sort of curls as soon as it exits the extruder, that indicates a partial jam. That can actually cause all of the symptoms you are seeing.
The good news is that you should be able to determine any of this in the first 30 seconds of the print. Hope this touches on some things not already discussed, and helps you out.
There are 2 other things I can suggest that I don’t think have been mentioned. Check your STL file. There could be a slight gap below it when you are making a print file that is causing it not to be all the way on the plate. It can be a sight bump in one spot that you may not notice is there, or it could be that the part is not perfectly square with the build plate. Even one degree off and you will get this problem. Even if the STL is perfect and you don’t place it all the way on the plate it can cause this problem. Also, someone mentioned making sure you have the right blue tape. They are right - this is very important. The best blue tape I have found is Ace Hardware brand tape, and I have tried many brands. They sell it in 2.5" an 3" widths and it works so well that I can print wide parts without any sort of peeling up on the edges. If you can’t find Ace Brand then get tape that is not shiny. You can buy it online if you don’t have a store near you.
Good idea to check for the part possibly floating. That will make it do this every time. However, they did mention that it also occurs with rafts which should be impossible to have them floating. Thanks for the tip on Ace brand tape!
You have a very interesting problem, but I know one thing…
DO NOT TURN UP YOUR EXTRUDER TEMPERATURE!!
This will not help with your problem, and it may damage the extruder if you go over 245 Degrees (Celsius). Your problem is interesting because it has a few different problems, and it has a few different fixes. My first recommendation would be to check your homing. All 5th Generation Makerbot’s vary in homing heights, and this also varies in Smart Extruders. For this reason, I recommend running a new print every time you swap extruders. However, from the picture I can infer that this is probably something you should fix in MakerBot Desktop. Try squishing your first layer for print bed adhesion. (Adjust the Z-Offset). Another thing you could try is adding just a bit of glue to your plate. Don’t smear globs on, just a nice thin layer. This usually does the trick for most adhesion problems. Yet another thing you can try is changing filaments. I think somebody already mentioned that problems DO come with having old filament, including bed-adhesion. Try changing to some newer filament, this may help. My final suggestion would be checking your painters tape. Weird as it may sound, the type of painters tape you have may affect your adhesion! Some painters tapes don’t adhere very well. I have personally had the best luck with ACE Hardware’s tape.
I really hope this helps! As you can see, I know many possible solutions. It really varies on the problem, and I would just recommend trying each of my suggestions until one works! I really hope this helps!
Jackson
As indicated by others the spacing is too much. Need to watch closely when print starts and make small adjustment while print is starting. Takes a little practice, but even with what seems to be a perfectly level plate this is usually necessary. As for the tape, I and others have found that the best tape is actual Scotch brand masking tape and the trick is a wipe down with an alcohol soaked (not dripping) paper towel to slightly dampen and activate the surface. This works great! Use the alcohol trick with whatever tape you use.
I had this issue on my flash forge dreamer. It turns out there was a SLIGHT blockage (Contaminate) in the feeder tube inside the heater block. I was able to pull this apart and remove the contaminant and it worked beautifully.
