CTC Problems or 3D newbie problem.

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T12:45:13.000Z

Thanks… timothy… you are correct i have seen the preheat settings… im going to change it…
And what about the other home axis behavior is that normal?!

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T12:49:14.000Z

Yes when u send it to home the head should go to the back right side u should see 2 green lights come on. The bed will also go up.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T14:09:51.000Z

Homing position is correct. Back right. Pla I have to print #230. What generation CTC do you have? Did you have these issues before you upgraded to 7.7? The temp should read wet you set it at, so if you set at 245 it should read 0/245 all the way to 245/245 when warm. Right temp is setpoint, left is current temp. And lastly makerware sucks. The first print from simply3d was better than a month of tweaking on maternity. I currently run sailfish 7.5

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T14:15:00.000Z

I don’t know why you would even use preheat. I never do unless I’m loading filaments ( I have it set to 250 so it removes easier). Your software should preheat to your print temp settings

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T14:24:12.000Z

I have tried using cura and other slicers but when I do the head crashes into the front left side of the printer.

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T14:40:57.000Z

JDDIGITAL im newbie to 3d printing…even i don’t know what i’m doing, the preheat setting are already set by default with saifish 7.7. This is the first printer ive got so im learning and for that im counting on you guys… ive got the ctc dual extruder… Other thing is the bed leveling… as ive read about you have to use a piece of paper… so… i get the extruder to front center and level the bed until it scratchs the paper… do the same to left… then right side… but when i go back to front center i dont feel the scratch on the paper… is that normal? the same happens at the back… for me to feel some grip at center the left or right is too tight!

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T15:03:39.000Z

The new versions of makerware are becoming more and more hostile to non mbi bots. Mbi has buried settings drop inside python files. If you don’t have a 5th gen makerbot, the best option would be desktop 2.4. It is floating around the internet.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:04:32.000Z

Is your CTC case black or clear?

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T15:06:18.000Z

Your nozzles are probably not even. Concentrate on the right extruder, as it’s the primary. Dual extruding is running and we need to get you walking first.

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T15:10:31.000Z

Are you using rep1 options for cura and gpx? Did you clear your eeprom after installing sailfish? Can you describe your glass mod? Are you using any surface prep on your glass (aquanet)? Make sure everything you do follows rep1 or rep1 dual profiles. NO MATTER WHAT CTC SAYS YOU HAVE A REPLICATOR DUAL CLONE, not a rep2

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:10:39.000Z

Also when you level, do you notice a right or left extruder grabbing more. For example when you feel the scratching and you gently try to rotate the paper does it seem to grip both extruded nozzles or just one? If just one nozzle is grabbing you may have to level your nozzles. Try to run the leveler 2 or three times in a row and see if it gets better. You said you had a glass plate so I’m not leaning towards a bent heat bed

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T15:12:12.000Z

Preheating is correct. You will want to tram (level) the bed at printing temps. Aluminum expands, and the plastic arms that hold the z stage will deform over time and temperatures.

adamcooks · 2015-11-13T15:13:47.000Z

Using binder clips also will deform the glass, simply rest the glass on .5mm silicone pads. Amazon sells under the name “gino pad”

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T15:37:59.000Z

yes CTC black case… about the leveling…im added to the table a 3mm glass to the table im using the right extruder… and ive already level the extruders using a jig found on thingiverse: Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture by einer_designs - Thingiverse…
I get the two extruders to scratch the paper… both scratch at the left also at the right… but if i level at front… when i get the paper scratching… at the left or right is too tight… if l loosen it i get no scratch ate front center… Ive add the glass bed… to get a level surface to exclude a non level bed…

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T15:39:24.000Z

i dont use bider clips… i used blue tesa tape to hold the glass…

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:50:43.000Z

Did you try repeating the level test back to back a few times. I found this helped me lots.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:52:41.000Z

Also brand of blue tape makes a difference. I found the 3m brand works best for me.

JDDIGITAL · 2015-11-13T15:54:32.000Z

And a glue stick. Elmer’s. I get the purple one to easily tell if I covered everything correctly

BlackMist · 2015-11-13T16:02:05.000Z

So you also use glue stick for pla?! can you provide some printing settings?
thanks.

Timothy0413 · 2015-11-13T16:03:04.000Z

I’m using 3mm window glass with blue tape. Everything sticks very good PLA and ABS no problems there. Every time I use anything but maker bot desktop it won’t print. Just crashes or starts trying to print while not heated!