Hey everyone, printing on my new Flashforge Creator Pro and getting a little bit of warping with large, flat prints even with a heated bed (50 C.)
I was wondering if anyone has tried to correct the warping of a part after the print is finished? Like, maybe turn on just the bed with preheat up to 90 or 100 so that the warped first layers soften up and level back down? Would that even happen?
Just curious if anyone has tried anything like that with any success…
I have straightened an abs motor mount for my printer once by doing that. I use nylon now. I have learned that with nylon, trying to flatten only make it warp more. Clamping the part and using a heat gun might work.
I ordered the glass bed kit from Technology Outlet for £30 - comes with 3Dlac (essentially really really good hairspray) - thats my biggest tip. With the glass bed and a spray of that stuff I get perfect adhesion every time.
As for material:
ABS - 220 hot end / 110 bed
PLA - 210 hot end / 45 bed
Ive found software plays a big part - for ease, quality and speed I use the Makerbot software now and just leave it on their quick settings. Layer height at 0.2mm and job done.
Thanks, guys. Adhesion is not the problem (the warping will pull the blue tape that’s on the bed up off the bed, though…) though I will get a glass bed soon most likely. I’ve upped my bed temperature to 70C and that seems to improve the prints a bit. Might try the heat gun technique…
I’m using borealistic glass plate and the software in use is Simplify3D
For ABS 230° with 100° bed temperature using the right extruder
For PLA 215° with 60° bed temperature using the left extruder
For Wood 200° with 60° bed temperature (using the left extruder)
If noticed their is a small difference when using the left extruder and PLA, this extruder is closer to the default cooling system.
Using a gluestick to make sure the first layers are sticking well to the plate
also make sure the bed is leveled correctly, making sure the first layers are sticking well when starting a print.
in my opinion if the first layers are printed well, the rest comes out ok too.
We have managed to flatten some prints (ABS, on a lulzbot Taz 5) by soaking them in hot water before putting a weight on it to flex it back. I will have a look see if i can find any pictures for you.
We also use a much higher bed temperature, around 100C.
We’ve had problems with flat parts warping as soon as they come off our heated PEI bed. They were perfectly flat with no corner peeling while the bed was hot but as soon as the bed cooled and the completed parts came off, they would warp. We had good success fixing them by submerging them in hot water, forcing them in to the right shape and letting the water cool back to room temperature. Submerging the part in hot water allows the whole part to reach an equilibrium temperature so that it softens more evenly.
I’ve written a blog post here (http://bhivelabs.uk/2016/04/18/fixing-a-warped-abs-print/ 66) since it might be helpful to see pictures of how we did it. Apologies if it’s full of grammatical errors since I’ve not yet had time to proof read it.
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. I am printing with PLA for the time being. Will try some of the post print techniques mentioned to correct the warp. Going forward, a 70C platform seems to correct the warping much better than 50C. But apparently both of my thermocouple sensors just busted… so onto the next issue…
Had exactly the same problem, especially with ABS prints. Have to try everything, but there was one golden tip that you almost never read. You have not to buy anything and can try it immediately. Create a brim of one layer thick and 15-20 wide layers. Put this 0,00mm off the model. This will provide great brim along the model. I have absolutely no more warping, even with large (150mm) ABS prints. After printing the brim is easily removed by hand.
